WHINE # 76 - NORTH VERSUS SOUTH:  The wines of Italy

Italy is the world’s second largest producer of wine (after France) and the second largest exporter of wine (after Spain).  Needless to say Italy has a great variety of wines in terms of price, quality and style. 

Most Italian wines are made from varietals that are unique or semi-unique to Italy.   There are few (with the exception of something called Super Tuscans—see below) wines made from the world’s dominant varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, etc.  In fact, each Italian region tends to have its own specific grape.

For simplicity Italian wines divide nicely into those from north of Naples and those south. 

Northern Italian wines:  For a very long time wine lovers have thought of the good wines of Italy as coming only from the north.  While wines are produced in all regions of Italy the more famous wines come from the northern regions of Piedmont, Verona, and Tuscany.   Piedmont’s specific varietal is Nebbiola and the most famous Nebbiola is Barola.  Barola is rich and smooth but tends to be very expensive.  Piedmont also produces a varietal called Barbera, which tends to be very acidic.

Sangiovese is the most widely grown grape in all of Italy, and it is particularly associated with Tuscany.  Sangiovese is the basis of well-known Chianti, and also of Brunello di Montepulciano.  Brunello di Montepulciano rivals Barola in reputation and price.

In more recent years Tuscany has produced Bordeaux-type blends (Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in particular) that are marketed as Super Tuscans.  Although generally very good they are never inexpensive.

Finally, a third world famous wine of northern Italy is called Amarone or more properly  Valpolicella dela Amarone. This wine in double fermented and like other Valpolicellas is made from the Corvina grape.

If you see a theme here it is that the good wines of northern Italy tend to be pricey.  The other characteristic that they have in common is that they tend to be high in acid.  This, of course, makes them food wines, rather than sipping wines.

Southern Italian wines:  For a very long time vintners in southern Italy tended toward producing bulk wines that were intended for the local market, or which were shipped north for blending.

About 30 years ago, however, producers began to realize that there was more money to be made from concentrating their efforts on lower yields but higher quality.  The results have been dramatic.  By carefully crafting wines from indigenous varietals wine makers are now giving us delightful yet very affordable wines.\

Wines from the south tend to be darker, fruitier and definitely less acidic than wines from the north.  Generally they are more tannic.

If you are looking for wonderful everyday reds here are five varietals to try and I am sure you will enjoy any of them. 

Montepulciano di Abruzzo:  This is the second most produced wine in Italy, after Sangiovese.  Be careful, however, not to confuse this wine with Brunello di Montepulciano.  In the latter case the grape is Sangiovese and the name comes from the town in Tuscany.  Montepulciano is also the name of a varietal and it most commonly comes from the Abruzzo region.  Although there are a few expensive Montepulcianos, many are quite reasonable in price and can be drunk on their own (as they are low in acid) or with food  that is not too high in protein.

Nero d’avola:  This is the great wine of Sicily.  Coming from a hot climate this wine is full-bodied, fruit driven, bold and with lots of tannins.  The next time you are having a steak and don’t want to pair it with an expensive Cabernet Sauvignon, try a Nero d’avola.

Negroamaro and Primitivo:  The Puglia region produces two varietals.  Negroamaro is a black grape that is rustic and fruity.  Like other southern Italian wines it is big and bold and pairs exceptionally well with braised short ribs.  On the other hand, Primitivo is a little lighter with more acid.  It has been argued that Primitivo is the same as Californian Zinfandel.  Whether it is or not is a question best left to botanists.  However, if you like Zinfandel, try its cheaper cousin or brother or whatever it is.

Aglianico:  I have left the best for the last.  Aglianico is a wonderful wine from Bascilicata (the instep of the boot of Italy).  Unlike other southern regions of Italy, Bascilicata always produced quality rather than bulk wines.  Aglianico is somewhat unique in that it is high in both acid and tannin.  The flavour is thus wonderful.  In fact, this is my favorite wine of all of Italy, north or south.  Aglianico is usually a little more expensive than other southern Italian wines but it is well worth the price difference.  In fact, next month I am heading to Bascilicata in search of the perfect bottle.

Country restaurants:  Any French gourmand will tell you that the best restaurants in France are not in Paris.  The same holds in Canada.  Forget the over-priced places in Toronto or Vancouver and seek out those special spots in the back-of-the-beyond.  In the past few weeks we have enjoyed two meals that were simply incredible.  First we visited “The Wild Caraway” in West Advocate.  West Advocate is ½ hour’s drive past Parrsboro, and as you know, Parrsboro is at the end of the world.  The second phenomenal meal was had at “The Rossmount Inn” in Chambrook, N.B. (near St. Andrew’s).  It would be hard to choose between these two places in terms of the food.  However, The Rossmount had the better wine list.  One word of caution, however.  Don’t even think about trying to score a table at either place unless you make a reservation well in advance.

Whine # 75

MATEUS:  Those of you of my advanced generation will remember drinking certain inexpensive wines partly because of the exotic shapes of the bottles.  In college we all drank straw-covered bottles of cheap Chianti so that we could use the empties as candle holders.  Another favorite from the 60's was Portuguese Mateus, a slightly sparkling (actually crackling) rose.

A few months ago in a fit of nostalgia I purchased a bottle of Mateus and was surprised that I quite liked it.  Flash forward a bit to a warm summer night when we invited a few friends over for a backyard barbeque.  As we sat under our apple trees and had pre-dinner drinks I decided to serve chilled Mateus.  For comparison I also served a standard rose from Bordeaux, handing each guest two glasses simultaneously.  Not telling anybody what they were drinking I asked my guests to simply tell me which rose they preferred.  You guessed it, 4 out of 5 much preferred the Mateus to the more expensive Bordeaux.  Thus, if you are looking for a very inexpensive summer drink, Mateus is available in Nova Scotia for $13 per bottle; and at the LCBO stores in Ontario it is listed for only $10.05

Chilled rose is a great drink on a hot summer day.  Roses are made from a great variety of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Carmenere.  Obviously these wines taste different from one another and I leave it to you to decide which you prefer.  My personal preference is Chilian rose, made from Pinot Noir.

Finally, rose must be served well chilled.  It is definitely not cold enough if brought straight from your wine refrigerator.  I like to chill the wine in an ice bucket for at least a couple of hours before pulling the cork.

THE HATFIELD HOUSE:  Ocassionally one finds an exceptional restaurant that is not in a city and that does not attract much press.  Last summer I described a great meal at the Red Cap Inn in West Pubnico (see Whine # 73).  This summer I discovered a very special restaurant not far from West Pubnico in the tiny Acadian village of Tusket (home of Canada's oldest courthouse).  Both restaurants feature seafood, but the Hatfield House is more toward the fine dining end of the spectrum.

The Hatfield House was built in 1793 by Abigail Price, a "widowed Black woman".  Unfortunately not much is known about her but my guess is she had a very interesting history.  The house sits on a beautiful lot on the east bank of the Tusket River.  We were fortunate to have a window seat in the 45-seat restaurant and stayed long after we had finished eating in order to watch a spectacular sunset over the wide river.

The restaurant is open Wednesday to Sunday from May until December.  As mentioned it is primarily a seafood restaurant, but we have never had more fresh or better prepared haddock, lobster, etc.  Although the wine list is short, it is adequate, and the food prices are very reasonable.

If you are looking for a holiday in southern Nova Scotia, drive past the traditional tourist towns of Chester, Mahone Bay and Liverpool and have some magnificent food at the Red Cap Inn in West Pubnico and The Hatfield House in Tusket.

AGLIANICO:  World-wide there are perhaps 2,000 different wine varietals being produced.  However, as time passes more and more vineyards choose to produce a small number of well-known, popular grapes.  In terms of red wines, perhaps 90% of the wines that you find available will be single varietals or blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Grenache.

One lesser known varietal is very slowly taking its place among the world's great varietals.  Produced mostly in the southern regions of Italy (Basilicata and Campagnia) Aglianico (pronouced Allee-ann-nico) is a fantastic wine that deserves attention by lovers of big, robust wines.

As you know wines (particularly reds) vary widely in terms of their acidity, presence of tannins, and alcohol content.  Cabernet Sauvignon, Monastrell and Malbec are high in tannins but low in acidity.  Pinot Noir and Grenache are also low in acid but also relatively low in tannins.  On the other hand Sangiovese and Montepulciano are high in acid and low in tannin.

What makes Aglianico almost unique is that it is high in both tannins and acid.  Perhaps the only other wine that has these characterists is Nebbiolo from Peidmont.  Of course decent Nebbiolo tends to be very expensive and thus very seldom finds its way to my table.  The downside of being high in both tannins and acid is that the wine usually needs long aging to hit its peak.  Aglianico is best when it is between 10 and 20 years old.  Fortunately for me I recently discovered a cache of 2006 wines on sale at the Port in Halifax.  I quickly bought out their rather small supply.

Aglianico is an earth-driven wine with a hint of a taste of leather.  Because of its acidity it stands up to barbeque sauce, and because of its tannins it is wonderful with high fat meats.

On my bucket list is a trip to Basilicata to find the perfect bottle of Aglianico.  If all goes well this should happen in early November.

Winewhine # 74

WHINE # 74

Changes to the Whine:   When I posted my first Whine in 2008 it was mainly directed at members of the Opimian Society, some of whom wanted suggestions as to what to buy from the wine club’s offerings.  Thus, I posted a blog each time the Opimian Society sent a catalogue to its members.

Since 2008 there have been a number of changes.  First, fewer of those to whom I send notices  are members of the Opimian Society.  Second, the Opimian Society now makes more frequent offerings.  Therefore, by linking my blogs to the Society’s timetable the result is more frequent blogs than I wish to post.

Starting with this Blog there will be two changes.  First, I shall not be making recommendations for wines to purchase from Opimian.  Second, I shall now be posting blogs only quarterly.

An addendum to Leftover wine:  After posting my last blog, which included some advice for what to do with leftover wine, I heard from a reader who noted that she quite liked the “Coravin” system for preserving wine.  Coravin is a device whereby a needle is inserted through the cork of a bottle, some wine is poured out, and argon gas is inserted into the bottle.  Once the needle is withdrawn the wine is completely sealed and the inert argon gas prevents spoilage of the wine in the now partially filled bottle.  The system costs $ 300 to $ 400 and one must buy cannisters of argon at something less than $ 10. 

I have not tried this system and wonder how it works with plastic corks and more importantly screw-top wines.  As most of us know all Australian wines are screw-top and most countries (except France, Spain and Portugal) are relying less and less on traditional corks.

Albarino/Alvarhino:  I don’t have a favorite red wine; there are simply too many that I like.  On the other hand, the list of my white wine favorites is quite short, and Albarino is at the top of the list.  Albarino comes from Galacia (the best being from Raix Baixas) in Northwest Spain.  Although quite high in acidity it’s flavor is more apricot or peach than lemon or lime.  It is a very smooth (high in glycerol) wine that is moderately heavy (11.5% -12.5% alcohol).  It is the perfect accompaniment for shellfish.  I find it quite similar to Viognier, and not dissimilar from an unoaked Chardonnay. 

Although primarily produced in Spain Albarino is making inroads in California and Australia.  In Portugal the same grape is called Alvarhino and it is used in some of the better Vinho Verdes.  However, Vinho Verde tends to come from very high production vineyards and the alcohol content is usually no more than 9%.  Thus, a Spanish Albarino and a Portuguese Vinho Verde (even when high in Alvarhino) are quite different.

If you like unoaked American Chardonnay or if you like French Chablis, why not expand your horizons and try a Spanish Albarino?

Syrah/Shiraz/Petite Syrah/Petite Sirah:  While it is easy to get confused about these varietals, it is well worth sorting them out.  Let’s start with Syrah  Although grown in many parts of the world (Australia, California, South America) Syrah is most associated with the northern Rhone Valley.  Syrah from the northern Rhone (but it is also grown in the southern Rhone) is a light colored, relatively thin wine with hints of scented flowers.  Some of the best vintages are capable of many years aging.

When grown in Australia Syrah is called Shiraz and it is Australia’s most popular red varietal.  Syrah and Shiraz are exactly the same grape; yet, a French Syrah and an Australian Shiraz taste very different.  An Australian Shiraz is darker in color, has more alcohol content, and tastes peppery.  Probably the difference is due to the much hotter Australian climate, although the intentions of the wine-makers may also contribute to the difference.

Petite Syrah:  There is a strain of Syrah with slightly smaller berries.  Some growers in Burgundy as well as in California refer to this strain as Petite Syrah.  There is not a lot of this wine produced; thus, I mention it only because of the confusion with the next varietal that I shall describe.

Petite Sirah:  In California there is a varietal that is exploding in popularity called Petite Sirah.  In actual fact the varietal is properly called Durif.  However, you will much more likely find this wine labelled Petite Sirah.  Durif, or Petite Sirah, is a cross between Syrah and Peloursin.  It is very different from Syrah; darker, more tannic, tasting of dense blackberry.  This is one of my very favorite wines.  It is a very good substitute for Cabernet Sauvignon when pairing with red meats.  On a recent cruise we had a drinks’ package whereby we were offered a choice of 30 wines each night with dinner.  Although many of the wines were excellent, most nights I ended up starting my dinner with a glass of Albarino (Betty usually started with either French Champagne or Prosecco).  After that we most often switched to Petite Sirah with our main courses. 

If you like heavy, tannic wines and you haven’t tried Petite Sirah/Durif then a treat awaits you.

   

WHINE # 73

LEFTOVER WINE:   Occasionally (in my case rarely) there is wine left in the bottle.  The question is how to keep it for the next day.   Still white wine is rarely a problem.  Replace the cork, or simply cover the neck of the bottle with plastic wrap, and put it in the refrigerator.  It will be fine for two or three days.

Still reds don’t keep nearly as well as whites, but sealed and kept cold they will probably be fine the next day.  There are devices on the market that extract the air from the bottle in order to slow the deterioration of the wine.  I have not found these to work all that well.  The main thing is to not leave the bottle on the counter.  Oxidation occurs much faster when the wine is warm.

All of this leads me to the problem of leftover sparkling wine.  It is always a treat to share a glass of bubbly as a starter to a meal.  However, one frequently wants to switch to a still wine when the food arrives, particularly if it is red meat.  What do you now do with a half bottle of Champagne or Cava or Prosecco?

Clearly the special corks that are used for sparkling wines (you know the ones that rapidly expand once pulled), like a genie, cannot be put back in the bottle.  Nonetheless, the wine must be sealed completely; otherwise the effervescence will dissipate and the wine will be ruined.    I recently discovered that if you put the wine in a plastic water bottle (and a 500 ml bottle may be the perfect size for the leftover bubbly) and tightly screw on the cap, the wine will be just as bubbly the next day. 

One final bit of advice:  When you open the plastic bottle do so out of sight of whomever you are serving.  There is nothing elegant about pouring $ 60. Champagne from a plastic water bottle.

LOUIS MARTINI:  Like many others I love a good Cabernet Sauvignon and like most others I think the best Cabs come from California.  Unfortunately California Cabs have been rising in price, and it is not always easy to find a good but affordable Cabernet.

One California winery that stands out for value is Louis Martini.  In 1933 Louis Martini, an Italian immigrant, was one of the first five to open a winery in the Napa Valley following prohibition.  His winery mostly produced bulk wines, but also some better wines.  In 2002 the winery was purchased by Gallo (largest wine company in the world) and the quality of the wines has been steadily improving since that acquisition.  I should point out that the grandson, Michael Martini, is still involved and manages the winery.

Why am I writing about this particular winery?  First, the wines are widely available (Quebec being an unusual exception) and, second, Louis Martini produces  a wide range of fine Cabernets.

For everyday affordable drinking their entry level Cabernet is simply called Louis Martini Sonoma.  More expensive but worth the price jump is either the Louis Martini Alexander Valley or the Louis Martini Napa.  For very special occasions the Louis Martini Monte Rossa Series is magnificent.  Finally their top wine is called Lot 1.  I can’t comment on this one because it’s definitely out of my price range.

RED CAP INN:  It is always great to find a restaurant that has good food and that also allows you to bring your own wine for only a corkage fee.  This past summer while travelling in Nova Scotia we decided to stay at the Red Cap Inn in West Pubnico.  The restaurant has a reputation for excellent fresh seafood.  We were not disappointed. 

The 6-room motel was clean, comfortable and basic.  The restaurant was modest in décor, but offered incredibly fresh seafood at very low prices.  West Pubnico, of course, is one of Nova Scotia’s most successful fishing villages.  To our surprise there was no corkage fee, even though the restaurant had its own wines and spirits available.

Finally, we lucked out in that we were there on a night when they had live music.  Our expectations were not particularly high, but our chanteuse, Yvette d’Entremont,  kept us in the restaurant until closing.  And we now frequently play one of her CD’s.  If you ever get a chance to hear  her sing, don’t pass it up.

If you haven’t been to West Pubnico, it’s a lovely place for a summer visit.  Drop down to the wharf and watch the large fleet of fishing boats, take along a good bottle of wine to the Red Cap Inn, and don’t forget a visit to the West Pubnico Golf and Country Club.

OPIMIAN OFFERING 247:  Although this offering features some fine Chablis and some excellent reds from northern Italy, my recommendations are for two inexpensive but very drinkable wines from the south of Italy.  9029 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo goes with heavier food, and 9045 Colpasso Nero D’Avola from Sicily will be perfect with pasta and Sicilian sausage.

                                                            WHINE # 72

WINE TASTING IN SOUTH AFRICA:   My experience with South African wines is relatively limited, largely due to the paucity of decent SA wines available in Nova Scotia.  Thus, I had been looking forward for some time for the chance to taste some of the better wines from this part of the world.

We arrived in South Africa on January 2 and on our first night in Cape Town we ate in a fabulous restaurant, and had a great wine chosen more-or-less by random from an extensive wine list.  The waiter said I made a very good choice, but when is a waiter going to say:  "Why did you pick that one, it's awful?"

The next day we had a full-day tour in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek.  Our guide was knowledgeable and also flexible, taking a side trip to the Thelema Winery so I could re-try the wine from the night before.  And it was just as good in the daylight hours.  We also stopped at several wineries in the Stellenbosch area, the most impressive being one owned by the golfer Ernie Els.  The wine tasted great, but it was the beauty of the place that impressed most.

The town of Franschoek is quite beautiful and has a wine train taking passengers through nearby vineyards.  Perhaps next time we might even get to stay there.

What did I  learn about South African wines?  First, some of them are very good, especially if you like New World wines that are full-bodied with lots of flavours.  If you preference is for a thin Old World wine, such as a Pinot from Burgundy then these wines are not for you.  Perhaps what I could suggest is that if you like Australian wines, you probably will like the better wines of South African, even down to the taste of Eucalyptes.

PINOTAGE:  Just as Argentina has Malbec and Chile has Carmenere, South Africa has its own distinct variety.  And, Pinotage was not first developed someplace else.  It is truly an indigenous cross (not a hybrid, although only a botanist knows the difference) between Pinot Noir and Cinsault.  Deep ruby in colour, it has a smoky taste, but also may have too much Acetone, thus sometimes smelling like paint.  Pinotage is not my favorite wine, but so what.

TIDAL BAY:  In a previous blog I touched on wine tasting this past summer in Nova Scotia.  The wine that I liked the best was a Tidal Bay from Grand Pre.  Tidal Bay is Nova Scotia's only appellation wine and is a blend of several obscure varieties.  How good is this wine?  In order to find out  I decided to be objective.  Twice in blind tastings I have paired a Grand Pre Tidal Bay against a better known white.

In late summer I paired Tidal Bay against a standard white Bordeaux.  This tasting occurred at the Maritime Seniors Golf Association annual meet.  After a long day on the golf course a slight majority of golfers preferred the Tidal Bay.  Then at Christmas I paired a Tidal Bay against a Sauvignon Blanc (Nautilaus from New Zealand).  This time sixteen of the blind-tasters chose the Tidal  Bay over the more expensive wine, which was only chosen by five drinkers.   And you thought that  there are no good wines from Nova Scotia.  On the other hand, I have resisted any temptation to put a Nova Scotian red wine up against a known wine from any of the classic red wine countries.

Incidentally Nova Scotia's best selling wine is a sparkler from Benjamin Bridge called Nova Seven.  I find this wine a little sweet for my taste, but the slightly more expensive Benjamin Bridge Classic suits me just fine.

OPIMIAN OFFERING 246:  Only once per year does Opimian offer wines from South America.  I always save my pennies (not that Canadian pennies exist any more) and load up.  There are lots of choices but my favorities are the wines of Cornellana and Casa Nueva.  I recommend 8949 a Syrah/Carmenere and 8961 a Cuvee Gran Reserva.