WHINE # 76 - NORTH VERSUS SOUTH:  The wines of Italy

Italy is the world’s second largest producer of wine (after France) and the second largest exporter of wine (after Spain).  Needless to say Italy has a great variety of wines in terms of price, quality and style. 

Most Italian wines are made from varietals that are unique or semi-unique to Italy.   There are few (with the exception of something called Super Tuscans—see below) wines made from the world’s dominant varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, etc.  In fact, each Italian region tends to have its own specific grape.

For simplicity Italian wines divide nicely into those from north of Naples and those south. 

Northern Italian wines:  For a very long time wine lovers have thought of the good wines of Italy as coming only from the north.  While wines are produced in all regions of Italy the more famous wines come from the northern regions of Piedmont, Verona, and Tuscany.   Piedmont’s specific varietal is Nebbiola and the most famous Nebbiola is Barola.  Barola is rich and smooth but tends to be very expensive.  Piedmont also produces a varietal called Barbera, which tends to be very acidic.

Sangiovese is the most widely grown grape in all of Italy, and it is particularly associated with Tuscany.  Sangiovese is the basis of well-known Chianti, and also of Brunello di Montepulciano.  Brunello di Montepulciano rivals Barola in reputation and price.

In more recent years Tuscany has produced Bordeaux-type blends (Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in particular) that are marketed as Super Tuscans.  Although generally very good they are never inexpensive.

Finally, a third world famous wine of northern Italy is called Amarone or more properly  Valpolicella dela Amarone. This wine in double fermented and like other Valpolicellas is made from the Corvina grape.

If you see a theme here it is that the good wines of northern Italy tend to be pricey.  The other characteristic that they have in common is that they tend to be high in acid.  This, of course, makes them food wines, rather than sipping wines.

Southern Italian wines:  For a very long time vintners in southern Italy tended toward producing bulk wines that were intended for the local market, or which were shipped north for blending.

About 30 years ago, however, producers began to realize that there was more money to be made from concentrating their efforts on lower yields but higher quality.  The results have been dramatic.  By carefully crafting wines from indigenous varietals wine makers are now giving us delightful yet very affordable wines.\

Wines from the south tend to be darker, fruitier and definitely less acidic than wines from the north.  Generally they are more tannic.

If you are looking for wonderful everyday reds here are five varietals to try and I am sure you will enjoy any of them. 

Montepulciano di Abruzzo:  This is the second most produced wine in Italy, after Sangiovese.  Be careful, however, not to confuse this wine with Brunello di Montepulciano.  In the latter case the grape is Sangiovese and the name comes from the town in Tuscany.  Montepulciano is also the name of a varietal and it most commonly comes from the Abruzzo region.  Although there are a few expensive Montepulcianos, many are quite reasonable in price and can be drunk on their own (as they are low in acid) or with food  that is not too high in protein.

Nero d’avola:  This is the great wine of Sicily.  Coming from a hot climate this wine is full-bodied, fruit driven, bold and with lots of tannins.  The next time you are having a steak and don’t want to pair it with an expensive Cabernet Sauvignon, try a Nero d’avola.

Negroamaro and Primitivo:  The Puglia region produces two varietals.  Negroamaro is a black grape that is rustic and fruity.  Like other southern Italian wines it is big and bold and pairs exceptionally well with braised short ribs.  On the other hand, Primitivo is a little lighter with more acid.  It has been argued that Primitivo is the same as Californian Zinfandel.  Whether it is or not is a question best left to botanists.  However, if you like Zinfandel, try its cheaper cousin or brother or whatever it is.

Aglianico:  I have left the best for the last.  Aglianico is a wonderful wine from Bascilicata (the instep of the boot of Italy).  Unlike other southern regions of Italy, Bascilicata always produced quality rather than bulk wines.  Aglianico is somewhat unique in that it is high in both acid and tannin.  The flavour is thus wonderful.  In fact, this is my favorite wine of all of Italy, north or south.  Aglianico is usually a little more expensive than other southern Italian wines but it is well worth the price difference.  In fact, next month I am heading to Bascilicata in search of the perfect bottle.

Country restaurants:  Any French gourmand will tell you that the best restaurants in France are not in Paris.  The same holds in Canada.  Forget the over-priced places in Toronto or Vancouver and seek out those special spots in the back-of-the-beyond.  In the past few weeks we have enjoyed two meals that were simply incredible.  First we visited “The Wild Caraway” in West Advocate.  West Advocate is ½ hour’s drive past Parrsboro, and as you know, Parrsboro is at the end of the world.  The second phenomenal meal was had at “The Rossmount Inn” in Chambrook, N.B. (near St. Andrew’s).  It would be hard to choose between these two places in terms of the food.  However, The Rossmount had the better wine list.  One word of caution, however.  Don’t even think about trying to score a table at either place unless you make a reservation well in advance.