Whine # 27, June - 2011

Welcome John Embree of Antigonish to the Whine.

THE WINES OF EASTERN EUROPE: For centuries wine has been produced in those Eastern European countries that have a sufficient number of growing days for grapes to ripen. While most of the production has been for domestic consumption, bargain wines have long been exported to England and North America. In Canada most of us have drunk, at least on occasion, the famous Egri Bikaver (Bull’s Blood) from Hungary.

Egri Bikaver has been around a long, long time and supposedly dates back to 1552 when the Turks, led by Suleiman the Magnificent, had Eger castle under siege. The small group of defenders were given copious amounts of red wine to boost their spirits. The Turks observed the defenders quaffing this red liquid and rumor spread among the Turks that the defenders were downing bulls’ blood in order to give them extra strength. This belief so intimidated the Turks that they abandoned the siege.

Unfortunately for wine producers of the Balkans and Hungary, the rise of Communism resulted in great pressure for increased production. Eventually, the quality declined to the point where the only reason to drink the wine was if there were no alternatives.

After Communism collapsed wine producers realized that the only strategy that would result in the re-establishment of export markets would be one of increasing quality.

Betty and I recently returned from a tour of Eastern Europe. This was a chance for us to sample the local wines and we did this nightly. Here are some reflections on our experiences. Austria: As Austria is a relatively cold country the majority of wine produced is white. However, the dominant red grape is “Zweigelt” which produces a watery wine that can be downed in large quantities whenever one is out of beer. On the other hand, Austria now produces some excellent pinot noirs that rival in quality those from the more famous regions of Burgundy and Oregon. Slovenia is perhaps one of the best bets for finding a decent red. Merlot is the major grape. Last week I served a bottle of relatively expensive Slovenian Merlot to guests, without telling the origin. Opinions were split as to quality, but all agreed that there was less fruit flavour than the more familiar New World Merlots. In Croatia I tasted some really awful wines before reading in my hotel room that the best Croatian wines came from the varietal Plavac Mali. The bottle that I ordered in the restaurant that night was the best wine of the whole trip, reminding me of a top level Californian Zinfandel. Hungary: Despite the macho-sounding name of Bull’s Blood, Egri Bikaver is really quite a wimpy wine. Thin and lacking in much flavour, this is an everyday drinking wine that costs little and offers not a lot. However, my negative opinion of this wine is not shared by my spouse.
In sum, my brief foray into the wines of Eastern Europe has led me to conclude that these countries still have a long way to go before they can challenge any of the better-known wine producing countries.

Monastrell/Mourvedre: One of my daughters-in-law does not like Spanish wine. Even when I pour from a decanter she is not often fooled. However, I think that what she really doesn’t like is Tempranillo. Nearly half of all red wines produced in Spain are from the Tempranillo grape (also known as Ojo de Liebre, or Cencibel, or Rinto Fino, or Tinto del Toro) This low acid wine has an earthy or barnyard flavour that is either loved or hated.

But not all Spanish wines are Tempranillos. Spain makes lots of Garnacha (Grenache) and also lots of Monastrell. Monastrell is sometimes referred to as a man’s wine. This varietal grows best in hot climates and the resulting wine is high in alcohol content, high in tannins, and bursting in flavour. On the other hand, Monastrell ages very well and has great lasting potential (perhaps making it a woman’s wine as well).

This grape is widely grown in the south of France where it is called Mourvedre. However, it is rarely if ever sold as a single varietal, but is usually blended with Grenache and Syrah. The famous wine from Avignon (Chateau-Neuf-du-Pape) contains lots of Mourvedre.

For those of you who like big, bold wines and think you can only find them in Australia, Argentina or the Napa Valley, this is a wine for you to try. There are many Spanish Monastrells available in Canada at modest prices.

Possibly a true story: As I complete this Whine I am aware that tonight is the final game of the Stanley Cup Playoffs. We all know that the Boston fans will be crowded around their big screen TV’s with mugs filled with Budweiser. While some of the Canuck fans will be also quaffing beer, at least a few will be sipping some of those good wines from the Okanagan.

By the end of the second period my Vancouver fan has twice re-filled his Riedel . At this point his wife joins him on the couch. To her surprise he whispers “I love you”. Not used to such proclamations she looks him square on and says: “Is that you talking or is it the wine talking?” “Why it’s me talking” responds the husband, “to my wine.” Finally, I hope neither my hero nor his spouse were part of the riots that followed Vancouver’s loss.

Opimian Offering 204

: This offering has a number of good wines at affordable prices. My recommendations include 6210 and/or 6211 Butterfly Ridge Merlot and Butterfly Ridge Zinfandel. These wines will be ready for drinking when received. Also from California I recommend 6227 Castoro Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. Only slightly more expensive than the Butterfly Ridge wines, this one will need about one year in your cellar. From Spain I strongly recommend 6244 Ramon Bilboa Single Vineyard. I served the 2005 version of this wine to guests last night and it was very well received. For an everyday drinking wine at a good price I suggest 6254 from Nero D’Avola. Finally, I would definitely avoid all of the wines offered from Pelee Island.