WHINE # 59

Napa versus France: Many would argue that the world's best wines come from Napa, California. Nonetheless, this great wine-growing valley was relatively unrecognized prior to the 1970's. Then in 1976 Steven Spurrier, an English wine merchant and wine school owner, decided to get a little publicity by having a blind wine-tasting in which some of the better wines from Napa were presented head-on against some of the best of France.

After travelling to Napa to collect wines Spurrier invited nine of France's best known experts to do the tasting. In the first round only Chardonnays were tried. To Spurrier's great surprise the wine rated at the top was a Chateau Montelena from Napa. A 1973 Meursault-Charmes from Burgundy came second, but the third and fourth places also went to Napa wines.

Spurrier was so shocked that he told the French tasters that an American wine had won. He at least, however, maintained the double-blind conditions for the second round, in which Cabernet Sauvignons were tasted.

Although the French press was paying little attention to this event, there was a reporter from Time Magazine in attendance and he overheard the French experts saying things like "this wine is not good, it must be an American wine". Nonetheless, after the tallies were counted an American Cabernet (a 1973 Stag's Leap) was the top-rated wine, followed by a 1970 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild.

This single event, dramatically changed the market conditions for wines from Napa. Today Napa wines are the among the world's most sought after vintages.

A couple of nights ago I re-watched the movie "Bottleshock" which recounts the adventures of Spurrier as he toured Napa wineries looking for bottles to include in his competition. I loved this movie both times I watched it and if you haven't seen it ask to borrow my copy.

Current comparisons: It has been almost 40 years since Spurrier's tasting and occasionally groups have attempted to repeat the contest (Napa almost always wins). However, this type of contest is of little use to us ordinary consumers. Do I really care what is the world's best bottle of wine? I cannot afford to drink wines in that price range. My interest is in what wine in the $ 20. or $ 30. range tastes best.

I went on the LCBO website to see what a current vintage of the above famous wines might cost. Although it appears I can get a Chateau Montelina Chardonnay for as little as $ 79., a good vintage of a Chateau Mouton-Rothschild would set me back $ 1549. Even if the Stag's Leap can be had for $ 230., so what?

I have done a few wine tastings at my home in which I have compared French and other wines. However, my tasters are amateurs like myself. Then again perhaps what tastes best to an amateur is just as important as what tastes best to a professional.

Current competitors: When Spurrier pitted France again Napa, he was comparing wines from the world's most prestigious wine country to wines from an upstart area. But, one should note, in 1976 wine production was in its infancy in Australia. Chile had just begun to take wine making seriously, and in my very favorite wine area (Mendosa), the Argentinians were still only producing bulk plonc for blending.

I would love to see a serious competition between the best of the Old World wines (France, Italy, Spain) against the best of the New World (U.S., Australia, Argentina, Chile). And I would like to see it done by price range. For example the best wines under $ 100. or under $ 50. I know which countries I would put my money on, but then again, I don't think Mr. Spurrier is going to organize this competition.

Sonoma wines date even farther back than those from its more famous neighbour. There are some very fine wines from Sonoma where small family-owned vineyards predominate. Because of a wider climate variation throughout Sonoma there is also a wider variation of wine styles. Some of the more famous sub-areas of Sonoma are the Alexander Valley, Dry Creek and Russian River. Most important to me is the fact that Sonoma wines tend to be a little less expensive than those of Napa.


A proper wine tasting: While spending the month of March in Gulf Shores, Alabama, we noticed an ad for a wine-tasting dinner in neighbouring Orange Beach. This tasting offered a four-course dinner, and with each course two wines were presented for comparison, one from Napa and one from Sonoma. All of the wines tasted were from the Trinchero Family Estates and all the wines were made by the same wine maker. And, of course, they were very, very close in retail value. Now this was a very nice way to compare affordable wines from two distinct valleys.

In addition to eating excellent food at this fabulous restaurant (Villagio's in case you are ever in Orange Beach) the wines were all excellent. Yet there were subtle differences. I can't really say that I preferred one Chardonnay over the other, or one Pinot over the other. However, both Betty and I had a slight preference for the Sonoma Merlot and the Sonoma Zinfandel.

Opimian Offering 233: In this offering there are a number of good Bordeauxs, but they are overly pricey. Consequently, I have little to recommend from this offering. However, if you like an occasional bottle of Beaujolais, the 8102 Brouilly will be excellent.