WHINE # 68

GLASS CORKS:   A few weeks ago we happened across a very nice restaurant in Cornwall, Ontario (Caso Paolo Ristorante Italiano is well worth a visit).  To accompany our meals of parmigiana I ordered an inexpensive Sicilian Syrah (this Cusamano is also worth a try).  To my surprise the bottle came with a glass cork; the first I had ever seen.

From trusty Google I learned that glass corks were developed in Germany about a decade ago as an alternative to screw tops.  Designed to look like decanter stoppers these glass corks have a plastic O-ring which provides a tight seal, and allows the wine to be easily re-sealed should one not finish the bottle.

Apparently they are used in some German and Austrian wines (which is perhaps why I didn’t discover them before) and have also been tried by a few American wine producers.  In the United States they did not catch on and have been more-or-less abandoned.  This is unfortunate as they look very elegant and have no disadvantages that I can tell.

I KNOW WHAT I LIKE:    We’ve all heard someone say (or we’ve said it ourselves):  “I don’t know much about this but I do know what I like.”  This could refer to art, or to music, or even to wine.  At first reflection this seems like a silly statement, but is it really?  For example wines vary along many dimensions such as acid level, level of tannin, and of course the amount of alcohol.  So someone may like their wines to be thick and heavy whereas someone else may prefer their wines to be light-tasting.  Neither person may realize that they are reacting to the alcohol level in the wine.  Similarly someone may like the dried-puckered feeling in the mouth that comes from a good dose of tannin.  Meanwhile another may like the fruity-flavour that tends to come through with a younger wine without much tannin.

If you are someone who does know what you like, then it is an easy step to realize that certain grapes produce light wine (Gamay and Pinot Noir), and other grapes are generally found in heavier wines (Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz).  Similarly, if you like a wine with a bit of an acidic bite then northern Italian wines may be for you.  If you like your wines to be thick and chewy (high alcohol content) then New World wines, particularly from California or Argentina, may be what you are seeking.  Generally speaking French wines will give you the opposite sense in your mouth.
 

If you read my blogs regularly you know that I am interested in matching wines to the food that I am eating.  It should be noted, however, that it is even more important to choose a wine that matches your taste preferences.  In other words, pick a wine that you know you like and don’t worry about what food it is going to accompany.

SOUTH AMERICAN 2014 VINTAGE:   A reader wrote that he was finding Chilean wines to be not as good as he remembered.  After an exchange of e-mails I found that he was complaining about the 2014’s.  Checking my wine diary I confirmed that I am still drinking 11’s and 12’s and had only drunk one 2014 (it was poor but a wine I hadn’t had before).

It turns out that 2014 was a difficult year for both Chile and Argentina, as late frosts destroyed somewhere between 30 and 70 per cent of the grape crops.  However, many reviewers maintain that the remaining grapes that were harvested were of high quality.  That doesn’t match with the above observation.

On the other hand, I can’t help wondering about how the supply was maintained when perhaps half the crop was lost.  Is it possible that for some or many of the less expensive brands grapes were used that might otherwise have been discarded or gone into bulk wines?  This could explain both of the above observations.  In any event I would love to hear from any of you who are Chilean drinkers.  What do you think of the 2014’s?

WINES FOR SUMMER:   As the warm weather approaches it is time to ease off on the Merlots and the Chardonnays that you have been drinking all winter and choose some very light wines for sipping; and, some very heavy wines to accompany barbecued meat.

Nothing beats a well-chilled beer on a hot afternoon, but a close second can be a low alcohol wine that is icy cold.  My preference is a Vinho Verde from Portugal because first it is crackling and second it contains only about 9.5% alcohol.  Another good choice would be a French rose which is lighter than most other roses.  If you are more traditional, then the grapes of choice should be Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio.  If you must sip a red wine on a hot day, then try a slightly chilled Pinot.

On the other hand, once you fired up the grill you need to switch from very light wines to very heavy wines that can stand up to the high protein meats that have been heavily spiced.  A Bordeaux or a Burgundy simply won’t do.  For a medium rare steak nothing beats a Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa or Sonoma.  If your supper happens to be spicy pork ribs then there is no choice other than an Australian Shiraz.  Finally, if you are simply grilling burgers then go for a good Malbec from Argentina; not a $ 12 one, rather go for one in the $ 16 - $ 20 range.

CELLAR OFFERING 242:  2015 is claimed to have been the best year in Burgundy since 2005.  For this reason, but only if you have very deep pockets you might consider ordering one of the Pinots that are featured.  On the other hand, should you be of lesser means my recommendation would be either the 8683 Corbieres or the 8704 Chateau Canet Minervois Rouge.