WHINE # 77

MUCH MORE ON ITALIAN WINES

WINE TASTING IN ITALY:  Wine is produced in all regions of Italy, and as the world’s largest exporter of wines, there are countless wines to try.   Naturally when one thinks of wine tasting one thinks of visiting vineyards and sampling there.  However, in Italy an alternative is to drop in at one the hundreds of Enotecas.  An Enoteca is a wine shop that features local wines, and in particular wines from some of the smaller vineyards.  Each Enoteca has a tasting room, and if you purchase even one bottle the tasting fee is waived.  Many Enotecas also have food, and a wonderful way to have lunch is to order food and taste different wines with the foods. 

If you prefer to taste wine at a winery, that is also possible.  However, wineries in Italy tend to be closed at lunchtime and one should check ahead before driving any distance to a particular winery.  Because a small winery’s products are available at the nearby Enotecas, the winery may not even bother having a retail outlet.

In a November trip to Italy Betty and I wanted to visit a couple of regions of southern Italy that are not high on North American tourists’ bucket lists.  First we visited Abruzzo and had several tastings of that regions famous wine, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  The highlight of our holiday, however, was travelling to Basilicata (instep of the boot) where we were seeking the perfect bottle of Aglianico.  As I have written in previous blogs, Aglianico is perhaps the best wine of Italy, and most Aglianicos come from Basilicata.  The very best comes from the base of Mount Vulture (thus the name Aglianico del Vulture.)  This wine, rich in both acid and tannin, is one of my very favorite wines.  We were not disappointed in the wines we found, both at the vineyards and in the Enotecas.

As an aside, Basilicata is a great region to visit and I can’t recommend too much a stop at the ancient city of Matera.  Here people lived in caves for 9,000 years (more-or-less right up until 1952).  We, in fact, rented a suite in a cave hotel and spent three nights there.  We spent our days exploring the area and ate all our meals in cave restaurants and had one of the best lunches ever in an Enoteca set deep in an ancient cistern.  By the way, Aglianica also comes from Campania and from Puglia, but the bulk is from Basilicata.

ITALY VERSUS THE WORLD:  During the Christmas holiday season we usually host a wine-tasting.  We invite a number of friends to blind-taste a series of wines.  Following our November Italian wine tasting we chose as this year’s theme “Italy versus the World”.

Sparkling wines made up our first flight.  The Italian wine was a LaMarca Prosecco from Veneto.  Pitted against this inexpensive wine was a Duval-LeRoy Champagne Brut Reserve, and a Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve from Nova Scotia.  Guests tasted the three wines in random order and in some cases re-tasted one or more of them.

For those interested in bargains, the Prosecco was the clear choice of 11 tasters; five tasters chose the moderately priced Nova Scotian wine, and only four chose the much more expensive Champagne.

I should like to note, however, that the Prosecco was quite a bit lighter in both colour and alcohol content than either of the other two.  This would make it an “easier drinking” wine and that perhaps explains the choice of the majority.

For the second flight I wanted to try a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, so I chose an Opimian Founders’ Choice 2013.  As Montepulicaino is an acidic wine I chose a New World acidic wine (a Zinfandel--Cline Ancient Vines 2013) as a comparison.  Here the Italian wine was not a winner, losing 12-9 to the wine from California.   I think most guests found the two wines quite similar and the choice was not easy.

Finally, for flight three I had to choose an Aglianico; a 2006 Falerno Del Massico from Campania.  As Aglianico is high in tannins I pitted this wine against one of my very favorite Malbecs, a 2013 Trapiche Gran Medalla.  Thus, I was asking my guests to compare two of my most loved wines.

Although close, the Aglianico was preferred by 12 tasters, with 8 tasters liking the Malbec.   One taster was simply unable to decide.

In sum the Italian wines won two out of the three competitions.  If you tend to avoid Italian wines, perhaps because of bad experiences with cheap Chiantis or even cheaper Valpolicellas, then perhaps it’s time for you to try some of the other Italian wines; in particular reds from the South or sparkling wines from the North.

GLASS SIZES:  A recent British study indicates that wine glass sizes have been gradually increasing for hundreds of years, but particularly since 1990.  Also, the study shows that drinkers will go for a second glass more quickly when drinking the same amount of wine from a large glass as opposed to from a small glass.

My take on that is that the wine actually tastes better from a large glass, as the large glass gives off more aroma.  Thus the wine goes down quicker and easier and a refill seems more urgent.

WHINE # 76 - NORTH VERSUS SOUTH:  The wines of Italy

Italy is the world’s second largest producer of wine (after France) and the second largest exporter of wine (after Spain).  Needless to say Italy has a great variety of wines in terms of price, quality and style. 

Most Italian wines are made from varietals that are unique or semi-unique to Italy.   There are few (with the exception of something called Super Tuscans—see below) wines made from the world’s dominant varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, etc.  In fact, each Italian region tends to have its own specific grape.

For simplicity Italian wines divide nicely into those from north of Naples and those south. 

Northern Italian wines:  For a very long time wine lovers have thought of the good wines of Italy as coming only from the north.  While wines are produced in all regions of Italy the more famous wines come from the northern regions of Piedmont, Verona, and Tuscany.   Piedmont’s specific varietal is Nebbiola and the most famous Nebbiola is Barola.  Barola is rich and smooth but tends to be very expensive.  Piedmont also produces a varietal called Barbera, which tends to be very acidic.

Sangiovese is the most widely grown grape in all of Italy, and it is particularly associated with Tuscany.  Sangiovese is the basis of well-known Chianti, and also of Brunello di Montepulciano.  Brunello di Montepulciano rivals Barola in reputation and price.

In more recent years Tuscany has produced Bordeaux-type blends (Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in particular) that are marketed as Super Tuscans.  Although generally very good they are never inexpensive.

Finally, a third world famous wine of northern Italy is called Amarone or more properly  Valpolicella dela Amarone. This wine in double fermented and like other Valpolicellas is made from the Corvina grape.

If you see a theme here it is that the good wines of northern Italy tend to be pricey.  The other characteristic that they have in common is that they tend to be high in acid.  This, of course, makes them food wines, rather than sipping wines.

Southern Italian wines:  For a very long time vintners in southern Italy tended toward producing bulk wines that were intended for the local market, or which were shipped north for blending.

About 30 years ago, however, producers began to realize that there was more money to be made from concentrating their efforts on lower yields but higher quality.  The results have been dramatic.  By carefully crafting wines from indigenous varietals wine makers are now giving us delightful yet very affordable wines.\

Wines from the south tend to be darker, fruitier and definitely less acidic than wines from the north.  Generally they are more tannic.

If you are looking for wonderful everyday reds here are five varietals to try and I am sure you will enjoy any of them. 

Montepulciano di Abruzzo:  This is the second most produced wine in Italy, after Sangiovese.  Be careful, however, not to confuse this wine with Brunello di Montepulciano.  In the latter case the grape is Sangiovese and the name comes from the town in Tuscany.  Montepulciano is also the name of a varietal and it most commonly comes from the Abruzzo region.  Although there are a few expensive Montepulcianos, many are quite reasonable in price and can be drunk on their own (as they are low in acid) or with food  that is not too high in protein.

Nero d’avola:  This is the great wine of Sicily.  Coming from a hot climate this wine is full-bodied, fruit driven, bold and with lots of tannins.  The next time you are having a steak and don’t want to pair it with an expensive Cabernet Sauvignon, try a Nero d’avola.

Negroamaro and Primitivo:  The Puglia region produces two varietals.  Negroamaro is a black grape that is rustic and fruity.  Like other southern Italian wines it is big and bold and pairs exceptionally well with braised short ribs.  On the other hand, Primitivo is a little lighter with more acid.  It has been argued that Primitivo is the same as Californian Zinfandel.  Whether it is or not is a question best left to botanists.  However, if you like Zinfandel, try its cheaper cousin or brother or whatever it is.

Aglianico:  I have left the best for the last.  Aglianico is a wonderful wine from Bascilicata (the instep of the boot of Italy).  Unlike other southern regions of Italy, Bascilicata always produced quality rather than bulk wines.  Aglianico is somewhat unique in that it is high in both acid and tannin.  The flavour is thus wonderful.  In fact, this is my favorite wine of all of Italy, north or south.  Aglianico is usually a little more expensive than other southern Italian wines but it is well worth the price difference.  In fact, next month I am heading to Bascilicata in search of the perfect bottle.

Country restaurants:  Any French gourmand will tell you that the best restaurants in France are not in Paris.  The same holds in Canada.  Forget the over-priced places in Toronto or Vancouver and seek out those special spots in the back-of-the-beyond.  In the past few weeks we have enjoyed two meals that were simply incredible.  First we visited “The Wild Caraway” in West Advocate.  West Advocate is ½ hour’s drive past Parrsboro, and as you know, Parrsboro is at the end of the world.  The second phenomenal meal was had at “The Rossmount Inn” in Chambrook, N.B. (near St. Andrew’s).  It would be hard to choose between these two places in terms of the food.  However, The Rossmount had the better wine list.  One word of caution, however.  Don’t even think about trying to score a table at either place unless you make a reservation well in advance.

Whine # 75

MATEUS:  Those of you of my advanced generation will remember drinking certain inexpensive wines partly because of the exotic shapes of the bottles.  In college we all drank straw-covered bottles of cheap Chianti so that we could use the empties as candle holders.  Another favorite from the 60's was Portuguese Mateus, a slightly sparkling (actually crackling) rose.

A few months ago in a fit of nostalgia I purchased a bottle of Mateus and was surprised that I quite liked it.  Flash forward a bit to a warm summer night when we invited a few friends over for a backyard barbeque.  As we sat under our apple trees and had pre-dinner drinks I decided to serve chilled Mateus.  For comparison I also served a standard rose from Bordeaux, handing each guest two glasses simultaneously.  Not telling anybody what they were drinking I asked my guests to simply tell me which rose they preferred.  You guessed it, 4 out of 5 much preferred the Mateus to the more expensive Bordeaux.  Thus, if you are looking for a very inexpensive summer drink, Mateus is available in Nova Scotia for $13 per bottle; and at the LCBO stores in Ontario it is listed for only $10.05

Chilled rose is a great drink on a hot summer day.  Roses are made from a great variety of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Carmenere.  Obviously these wines taste different from one another and I leave it to you to decide which you prefer.  My personal preference is Chilian rose, made from Pinot Noir.

Finally, rose must be served well chilled.  It is definitely not cold enough if brought straight from your wine refrigerator.  I like to chill the wine in an ice bucket for at least a couple of hours before pulling the cork.

THE HATFIELD HOUSE:  Ocassionally one finds an exceptional restaurant that is not in a city and that does not attract much press.  Last summer I described a great meal at the Red Cap Inn in West Pubnico (see Whine # 73).  This summer I discovered a very special restaurant not far from West Pubnico in the tiny Acadian village of Tusket (home of Canada's oldest courthouse).  Both restaurants feature seafood, but the Hatfield House is more toward the fine dining end of the spectrum.

The Hatfield House was built in 1793 by Abigail Price, a "widowed Black woman".  Unfortunately not much is known about her but my guess is she had a very interesting history.  The house sits on a beautiful lot on the east bank of the Tusket River.  We were fortunate to have a window seat in the 45-seat restaurant and stayed long after we had finished eating in order to watch a spectacular sunset over the wide river.

The restaurant is open Wednesday to Sunday from May until December.  As mentioned it is primarily a seafood restaurant, but we have never had more fresh or better prepared haddock, lobster, etc.  Although the wine list is short, it is adequate, and the food prices are very reasonable.

If you are looking for a holiday in southern Nova Scotia, drive past the traditional tourist towns of Chester, Mahone Bay and Liverpool and have some magnificent food at the Red Cap Inn in West Pubnico and The Hatfield House in Tusket.

AGLIANICO:  World-wide there are perhaps 2,000 different wine varietals being produced.  However, as time passes more and more vineyards choose to produce a small number of well-known, popular grapes.  In terms of red wines, perhaps 90% of the wines that you find available will be single varietals or blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Grenache.

One lesser known varietal is very slowly taking its place among the world's great varietals.  Produced mostly in the southern regions of Italy (Basilicata and Campagnia) Aglianico (pronouced Allee-ann-nico) is a fantastic wine that deserves attention by lovers of big, robust wines.

As you know wines (particularly reds) vary widely in terms of their acidity, presence of tannins, and alcohol content.  Cabernet Sauvignon, Monastrell and Malbec are high in tannins but low in acidity.  Pinot Noir and Grenache are also low in acid but also relatively low in tannins.  On the other hand Sangiovese and Montepulciano are high in acid and low in tannin.

What makes Aglianico almost unique is that it is high in both tannins and acid.  Perhaps the only other wine that has these characterists is Nebbiolo from Peidmont.  Of course decent Nebbiolo tends to be very expensive and thus very seldom finds its way to my table.  The downside of being high in both tannins and acid is that the wine usually needs long aging to hit its peak.  Aglianico is best when it is between 10 and 20 years old.  Fortunately for me I recently discovered a cache of 2006 wines on sale at the Port in Halifax.  I quickly bought out their rather small supply.

Aglianico is an earth-driven wine with a hint of a taste of leather.  Because of its acidity it stands up to barbeque sauce, and because of its tannins it is wonderful with high fat meats.

On my bucket list is a trip to Basilicata to find the perfect bottle of Aglianico.  If all goes well this should happen in early November.

Winewhine # 74

WHINE # 74

Changes to the Whine:   When I posted my first Whine in 2008 it was mainly directed at members of the Opimian Society, some of whom wanted suggestions as to what to buy from the wine club’s offerings.  Thus, I posted a blog each time the Opimian Society sent a catalogue to its members.

Since 2008 there have been a number of changes.  First, fewer of those to whom I send notices  are members of the Opimian Society.  Second, the Opimian Society now makes more frequent offerings.  Therefore, by linking my blogs to the Society’s timetable the result is more frequent blogs than I wish to post.

Starting with this Blog there will be two changes.  First, I shall not be making recommendations for wines to purchase from Opimian.  Second, I shall now be posting blogs only quarterly.

An addendum to Leftover wine:  After posting my last blog, which included some advice for what to do with leftover wine, I heard from a reader who noted that she quite liked the “Coravin” system for preserving wine.  Coravin is a device whereby a needle is inserted through the cork of a bottle, some wine is poured out, and argon gas is inserted into the bottle.  Once the needle is withdrawn the wine is completely sealed and the inert argon gas prevents spoilage of the wine in the now partially filled bottle.  The system costs $ 300 to $ 400 and one must buy cannisters of argon at something less than $ 10. 

I have not tried this system and wonder how it works with plastic corks and more importantly screw-top wines.  As most of us know all Australian wines are screw-top and most countries (except France, Spain and Portugal) are relying less and less on traditional corks.

Albarino/Alvarhino:  I don’t have a favorite red wine; there are simply too many that I like.  On the other hand, the list of my white wine favorites is quite short, and Albarino is at the top of the list.  Albarino comes from Galacia (the best being from Raix Baixas) in Northwest Spain.  Although quite high in acidity it’s flavor is more apricot or peach than lemon or lime.  It is a very smooth (high in glycerol) wine that is moderately heavy (11.5% -12.5% alcohol).  It is the perfect accompaniment for shellfish.  I find it quite similar to Viognier, and not dissimilar from an unoaked Chardonnay. 

Although primarily produced in Spain Albarino is making inroads in California and Australia.  In Portugal the same grape is called Alvarhino and it is used in some of the better Vinho Verdes.  However, Vinho Verde tends to come from very high production vineyards and the alcohol content is usually no more than 9%.  Thus, a Spanish Albarino and a Portuguese Vinho Verde (even when high in Alvarhino) are quite different.

If you like unoaked American Chardonnay or if you like French Chablis, why not expand your horizons and try a Spanish Albarino?

Syrah/Shiraz/Petite Syrah/Petite Sirah:  While it is easy to get confused about these varietals, it is well worth sorting them out.  Let’s start with Syrah  Although grown in many parts of the world (Australia, California, South America) Syrah is most associated with the northern Rhone Valley.  Syrah from the northern Rhone (but it is also grown in the southern Rhone) is a light colored, relatively thin wine with hints of scented flowers.  Some of the best vintages are capable of many years aging.

When grown in Australia Syrah is called Shiraz and it is Australia’s most popular red varietal.  Syrah and Shiraz are exactly the same grape; yet, a French Syrah and an Australian Shiraz taste very different.  An Australian Shiraz is darker in color, has more alcohol content, and tastes peppery.  Probably the difference is due to the much hotter Australian climate, although the intentions of the wine-makers may also contribute to the difference.

Petite Syrah:  There is a strain of Syrah with slightly smaller berries.  Some growers in Burgundy as well as in California refer to this strain as Petite Syrah.  There is not a lot of this wine produced; thus, I mention it only because of the confusion with the next varietal that I shall describe.

Petite Sirah:  In California there is a varietal that is exploding in popularity called Petite Sirah.  In actual fact the varietal is properly called Durif.  However, you will much more likely find this wine labelled Petite Sirah.  Durif, or Petite Sirah, is a cross between Syrah and Peloursin.  It is very different from Syrah; darker, more tannic, tasting of dense blackberry.  This is one of my very favorite wines.  It is a very good substitute for Cabernet Sauvignon when pairing with red meats.  On a recent cruise we had a drinks’ package whereby we were offered a choice of 30 wines each night with dinner.  Although many of the wines were excellent, most nights I ended up starting my dinner with a glass of Albarino (Betty usually started with either French Champagne or Prosecco).  After that we most often switched to Petite Sirah with our main courses. 

If you like heavy, tannic wines and you haven’t tried Petite Sirah/Durif then a treat awaits you.

   

WHINE # 73

LEFTOVER WINE:   Occasionally (in my case rarely) there is wine left in the bottle.  The question is how to keep it for the next day.   Still white wine is rarely a problem.  Replace the cork, or simply cover the neck of the bottle with plastic wrap, and put it in the refrigerator.  It will be fine for two or three days.

Still reds don’t keep nearly as well as whites, but sealed and kept cold they will probably be fine the next day.  There are devices on the market that extract the air from the bottle in order to slow the deterioration of the wine.  I have not found these to work all that well.  The main thing is to not leave the bottle on the counter.  Oxidation occurs much faster when the wine is warm.

All of this leads me to the problem of leftover sparkling wine.  It is always a treat to share a glass of bubbly as a starter to a meal.  However, one frequently wants to switch to a still wine when the food arrives, particularly if it is red meat.  What do you now do with a half bottle of Champagne or Cava or Prosecco?

Clearly the special corks that are used for sparkling wines (you know the ones that rapidly expand once pulled), like a genie, cannot be put back in the bottle.  Nonetheless, the wine must be sealed completely; otherwise the effervescence will dissipate and the wine will be ruined.    I recently discovered that if you put the wine in a plastic water bottle (and a 500 ml bottle may be the perfect size for the leftover bubbly) and tightly screw on the cap, the wine will be just as bubbly the next day. 

One final bit of advice:  When you open the plastic bottle do so out of sight of whomever you are serving.  There is nothing elegant about pouring $ 60. Champagne from a plastic water bottle.

LOUIS MARTINI:  Like many others I love a good Cabernet Sauvignon and like most others I think the best Cabs come from California.  Unfortunately California Cabs have been rising in price, and it is not always easy to find a good but affordable Cabernet.

One California winery that stands out for value is Louis Martini.  In 1933 Louis Martini, an Italian immigrant, was one of the first five to open a winery in the Napa Valley following prohibition.  His winery mostly produced bulk wines, but also some better wines.  In 2002 the winery was purchased by Gallo (largest wine company in the world) and the quality of the wines has been steadily improving since that acquisition.  I should point out that the grandson, Michael Martini, is still involved and manages the winery.

Why am I writing about this particular winery?  First, the wines are widely available (Quebec being an unusual exception) and, second, Louis Martini produces  a wide range of fine Cabernets.

For everyday affordable drinking their entry level Cabernet is simply called Louis Martini Sonoma.  More expensive but worth the price jump is either the Louis Martini Alexander Valley or the Louis Martini Napa.  For very special occasions the Louis Martini Monte Rossa Series is magnificent.  Finally their top wine is called Lot 1.  I can’t comment on this one because it’s definitely out of my price range.

RED CAP INN:  It is always great to find a restaurant that has good food and that also allows you to bring your own wine for only a corkage fee.  This past summer while travelling in Nova Scotia we decided to stay at the Red Cap Inn in West Pubnico.  The restaurant has a reputation for excellent fresh seafood.  We were not disappointed. 

The 6-room motel was clean, comfortable and basic.  The restaurant was modest in décor, but offered incredibly fresh seafood at very low prices.  West Pubnico, of course, is one of Nova Scotia’s most successful fishing villages.  To our surprise there was no corkage fee, even though the restaurant had its own wines and spirits available.

Finally, we lucked out in that we were there on a night when they had live music.  Our expectations were not particularly high, but our chanteuse, Yvette d’Entremont,  kept us in the restaurant until closing.  And we now frequently play one of her CD’s.  If you ever get a chance to hear  her sing, don’t pass it up.

If you haven’t been to West Pubnico, it’s a lovely place for a summer visit.  Drop down to the wharf and watch the large fleet of fishing boats, take along a good bottle of wine to the Red Cap Inn, and don’t forget a visit to the West Pubnico Golf and Country Club.

OPIMIAN OFFERING 247:  Although this offering features some fine Chablis and some excellent reds from northern Italy, my recommendations are for two inexpensive but very drinkable wines from the south of Italy.  9029 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo goes with heavier food, and 9045 Colpasso Nero D’Avola from Sicily will be perfect with pasta and Sicilian sausage.

                                                            WHINE # 72

WINE TASTING IN SOUTH AFRICA:   My experience with South African wines is relatively limited, largely due to the paucity of decent SA wines available in Nova Scotia.  Thus, I had been looking forward for some time for the chance to taste some of the better wines from this part of the world.

We arrived in South Africa on January 2 and on our first night in Cape Town we ate in a fabulous restaurant, and had a great wine chosen more-or-less by random from an extensive wine list.  The waiter said I made a very good choice, but when is a waiter going to say:  "Why did you pick that one, it's awful?"

The next day we had a full-day tour in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek.  Our guide was knowledgeable and also flexible, taking a side trip to the Thelema Winery so I could re-try the wine from the night before.  And it was just as good in the daylight hours.  We also stopped at several wineries in the Stellenbosch area, the most impressive being one owned by the golfer Ernie Els.  The wine tasted great, but it was the beauty of the place that impressed most.

The town of Franschoek is quite beautiful and has a wine train taking passengers through nearby vineyards.  Perhaps next time we might even get to stay there.

What did I  learn about South African wines?  First, some of them are very good, especially if you like New World wines that are full-bodied with lots of flavours.  If you preference is for a thin Old World wine, such as a Pinot from Burgundy then these wines are not for you.  Perhaps what I could suggest is that if you like Australian wines, you probably will like the better wines of South African, even down to the taste of Eucalyptes.

PINOTAGE:  Just as Argentina has Malbec and Chile has Carmenere, South Africa has its own distinct variety.  And, Pinotage was not first developed someplace else.  It is truly an indigenous cross (not a hybrid, although only a botanist knows the difference) between Pinot Noir and Cinsault.  Deep ruby in colour, it has a smoky taste, but also may have too much Acetone, thus sometimes smelling like paint.  Pinotage is not my favorite wine, but so what.

TIDAL BAY:  In a previous blog I touched on wine tasting this past summer in Nova Scotia.  The wine that I liked the best was a Tidal Bay from Grand Pre.  Tidal Bay is Nova Scotia's only appellation wine and is a blend of several obscure varieties.  How good is this wine?  In order to find out  I decided to be objective.  Twice in blind tastings I have paired a Grand Pre Tidal Bay against a better known white.

In late summer I paired Tidal Bay against a standard white Bordeaux.  This tasting occurred at the Maritime Seniors Golf Association annual meet.  After a long day on the golf course a slight majority of golfers preferred the Tidal Bay.  Then at Christmas I paired a Tidal Bay against a Sauvignon Blanc (Nautilaus from New Zealand).  This time sixteen of the blind-tasters chose the Tidal  Bay over the more expensive wine, which was only chosen by five drinkers.   And you thought that  there are no good wines from Nova Scotia.  On the other hand, I have resisted any temptation to put a Nova Scotian red wine up against a known wine from any of the classic red wine countries.

Incidentally Nova Scotia's best selling wine is a sparkler from Benjamin Bridge called Nova Seven.  I find this wine a little sweet for my taste, but the slightly more expensive Benjamin Bridge Classic suits me just fine.

OPIMIAN OFFERING 246:  Only once per year does Opimian offer wines from South America.  I always save my pennies (not that Canadian pennies exist any more) and load up.  There are lots of choices but my favorities are the wines of Cornellana and Casa Nueva.  I recommend 8949 a Syrah/Carmenere and 8961 a Cuvee Gran Reserva.

WHINE # 71 – Christmas 2016

Christmas Dinner:   I am sometimes asked what wine is best matched to traditional Christmas dinner.  The short answer is whatever wine you like, but that answer is really a “cop-out”.   So, let’s assume that Christmas dinner is roast turkey with all the trimmings, and let’s assume you want a white wine with the white meat.  My suggestion is a chardonnay from California.  Your turkey probably comes with a rich, creamy gravy, and a relatively heavy, buttery chardonnay will match very well.  While I usually prefer  French Chablis to the heavier wine from California in this case I suggest you go with a new world wine.

On the other hand you may be a red wine drinker and you are not going to switch to white just because it’s Christmas.  Now the traditional advice for matching a red wine with turkey would be in the opposite direction to that given for a white wine match..  Instead of a heavy wine you will usually be advised to go with a light red; Pinot Noir being the standard choice.  This holds true for many preparations of turkey.  However, if you are a Maritimer like me you grew up with a bread and potato stuffing spiced heavily with summer savory.  My plate on Christmas day will have lots of this very spicy stuffing smothered with rich, creamy gravy.   Thus, I can go with a heavy, spicy wine, even something like an Australian Shiraz.  Confused?  Don’t worry, just open any moderately expensive bottle and enjoy.

A very special bottle:  Generally speaking, and there are lots of exceptions, the more expensive the bottle the better the wine.  But the relationship is definitely not a linear one.  Thus If you find that a $ 20 bottle tastes twice as good as a $ 10 bottle it doesn’t follow that a $ 100 bottle will be twice as good as one costing $ 50.  Just maybe it will be slightly better.

Naturally we all seek a price point where we get the maximum value; expensive  enough to be good, but cheap enough to be affordable.    Most times I choose a $ 20 bottle and only occasionally go up to $ 50.  Going above that point I generally find only a very slight increase in quality.  In other words, although the quality of the wine may be a little better, its value is a lot worse.

This leads me to my one great exception.  A few years ago my son talked me into buying a bottle of Penfolds Grange (vintage 2005).  I paid $ 340 for the single bottle.   I then very carefully laid it away wondering what occasion would justify pulling the cork. 

Well this summer an occasion arose that led me to open this wine.   My wife of 51 years had returned home from 16 days in the hospital; 11 of them in intensive care, several of those days on life support.   And, she was on her way to a full recovery. 

Once Betty had reached the point in her slow recovery that she could appreciate a good wine I decided to open my one bottle of Penfolds (I checked online and the 2005 vintage was now selling for just under $ 800).  With great care I pulled the cork and very carefully poured four exactly evenly filled glasses.  My wife, my son, my daughter-in-law and I sniffed the glass, rolled a little of the wine over our tongues, sniffed again, and eventually swallowed the most expensive glass any of us had ever tasted.

So how was it?  Speaking only for myself I can state that I had never experienced a wine with such a long finish.  The wine had nuances of chocolate and tobacco, but then so do lots of wines.  It was the length of the aftertaste that made the biggest impression.  I can honestly say that I never had a better wine, even if I have had many, many bottles of greater value.

Now, of course, it’s back to $ 20 wine, and perhaps on Christmas Eve I’ll even uncork a bottle of the $ 50 stuff. 

Blush versus Rose:  Some claim that Blush and Rose are two names for the same thing.  Uh-uh!  Blush is a mixture of white and red wine.  On the other hand, rose is made from red grapes, where the skins are removed early in the fermintation process;  before the mash turns red.  Anyway, it’s the wrong season for either, so I’ll say no more.

Opimian Offering 245:  This offering primarily has wines from South Africa.  I almost never drink South African wine, having never found a bottle that I really liked.  Consequently most of the wines are not familiar to me and I shall not make any recommendations.    However, I shall be doing a wine tour of Stellenbosch on January 4 and just maybe this will change my assessment of South African wines.