WINEWHINE # 17
Welcome Jim Bickerton, Chris Bryne, Neil Foshay, and Mike Melchin all of Antigonish and Jack MacLeod of New Glasgow to the WineWhine.
What is Meritage? For about 40 years the wine producers of California have competed with the wine producers of France to make the world’s best wines. Although the two most famous regions in France are Bordeaux and Burgundy, California’s wine makers see Bordeaux as their major competition. Perhaps this is because Napa and Sonoma grow many of the same grape varieties as are grown in Bordeaux.
There are traditionally two major differences between good Bordeaux and good wines from Napa. First, Californians have more sun and their grapes are more fully ripe when picked. This gives the “New World” taste which is both heavier and fruitier. Secondly, the great wines of Bordeaux are always blends, whereas California has traditionally produced single varietals (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Zinfandel).
In 1988 a group of Californian producers banded together to produce Bordeaux-style blends. Typically these blends include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and occasionally Malbec. These growers coined the term “Meritage” to describe these wines. Presumably the wines have both “merit” and “heritage”.
Today you will find Meritage in better restaurants and better wine shops. Typically these wines are not cheap, but they are almost always good. Although mimicking French wine there is still a difference. Meritage has the traditional heavier feel of a new world wine and a sophisticated palate would not confuse these wines with the lighter wines of Bordeaux.
The Northern Rhone: South of Burgundy (and south of the city of Lyon) lies the Rhone Valley, one of the great wine producing areas of France. However, the wines of the Northern Rhone are quite different than those of the Southern Rhone. In the next Whine I’ll have a small section on the Southern Rhone.
North of Lyon (Burgundy) the Pinot Noir grape is dominant. However, just south of Lyon (Northern Rhone) the main grape is Syrah. Syrah has been grown in this region for perhaps 2000 years. For a long time it was thought that the grape originated in Persia (in a town called Shiraz) but recent DNA research has indicated the grape is indigenous to the Rhone Valley itself.
There are many sub-regions in the Northern Rhone. The wines that one is most likely to find in North American shops are Cote Rotie, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, and St. Joseph. All of these wines benefit from aging. Crozes-Hermitage is usually more affordable than the others. By the way, the Nova Scotia Liqour Commission sells something called Rhone Heritage. Don’t be confused, that is a much inferior wine.
Many of you know that genetically Syrah is the same grape as Shiraz. Most of you are also familiar with the strong, peppery taste of Australian Shiraz. If you try a Syrah from the Northern Rhone you will find that the taste is very, very different. My guess is that if you like Australian Shiraz you will not be impressed with French Syrah and vice versa (I’m in the vice versa group).
Peru and Uruguay: Betty and I are just back from our third trip to South A
merica. This time we were on a cruise that had stops among other places in Peru, Equador, Columbia and Brazil. As you might suspect this was not a wine-tasting holiday. We were too far north and too close to the equator for much grape production. Nonetheless, there are South American wines that don’t come from Argentina or Chile. Peru and Uruguay are trying to get into the mass wine market. I had a few chances to taste wine from these two countries and my initial impressions were not very positive for Uruguay (it may be too rainy there) and much more positive for my small samples of Peruvian wine.
A fun way to buy wine: We ate on board ship 27 nights. The wine list in all the ship’s restaurants was extensive with wines in all price ranges. Prices were similar to what you would find in many Canadian restaurants. About 3 days into the cruise there was an announcement of a “Wine Bazaar”. The chief sommelier had decided to c
hange the wine menus and sell off many of the wines which were not to be included (for example a particular vintage where there were only a few bottles left) in the new listings. The deal was that the wines were discounted 30% from the menu price and whatever wine was purchased was kept in the cellar until the diner asked for his or her bottle to be brought up to accompany dinner. A huge crowd gathered at the beginning of the bazaar. However, as the morning progressed fewer people stayed around and with about an hour to go the prices started to drop. By the end customers were asked to make offers on any of the remaining wines. I started by buying wines at 30% off and ended by getting wines about two-thirds off. I was told that I purchased more wine than anybody else on the ship. With some effort I managed to drink it all before disembarking.
Price changes? Now that the Canadian dollar is at par with the American we should start to see some small price drops in our European and South American wines. At least I am hoping that this is true. On the other hand, the Chilean earthquake destroyed about 13 million bottles. Chilean wineries south of Santiago were most effected. I know at least one While reader has been stocking up on Montes Alphas on the expectation of a price rise. All Montes wines are good but the Alphas are extra special so I think I’ll find a spot to store an extra case or two.
Cellar Offering 195: Wow! Twenty-four pages of wines from Bordeaux and Bergerac. How does one choose? I am obliged to make at least a few suggestions so here they are:
For those of you who like a crisp, citrus-tasting white wine try # 5567 Chateau Moulin de Launay, AC Entre-Deax-Mers, 2008
For those of you with a little time to cellar a classic red Bordeaux try # 5561 Chateau de Sours Rouge, 2008.
If you want to drink it right away try one of my favorites # 5588 Chateau Chante Alouette, AC Fronsac, 2008
For those of you with deeper pockets you must have some Margaux in your cellar so try # 5595 Chateau Tavac, AC Margaus, Cru Bourgeois 2005. Expensive but ready to drink.
Welcome Jim Bickerton, Chris Bryne, Neil Foshay, and Mike Melchin all of Antigonish and Jack MacLeod of New Glasgow to the WineWhine.
What is Meritage? For about 40 years the wine producers of California have competed with the wine producers of France to make the world’s best wines. Although the two most famous regions in France are Bordeaux and Burgundy, California’s wine makers see Bordeaux as their major competition. Perhaps this is because Napa and Sonoma grow many of the same grape varieties as are grown in Bordeaux.
There are traditionally two major differences between good Bordeaux and good wines from Napa. First, Californians have more sun and their grapes are more fully ripe when picked. This gives the “New World” taste which is both heavier and fruitier. Secondly, the great wines of Bordeaux are always blends, whereas California has traditionally produced single varietals (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Zinfandel).
In 1988 a group of Californian producers banded together to produce Bordeaux-style blends. Typically these blends include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and occasionally Malbec. These growers coined the term “Meritage” to describe these wines. Presumably the wines have both “merit” and “heritage”.
Today you will find Meritage in better restaurants and better wine shops. Typically these wines are not cheap, but they are almost always good. Although mimicking French wine there is still a difference. Meritage has the traditional heavier feel of a new world wine and a sophisticated palate would not confuse these wines with the lighter wines of Bordeaux.
The Northern Rhone: South of Burgundy (and south of the city of Lyon) lies the Rhone Valley, one of the great wine producing areas of France. However, the wines of the Northern Rhone are quite different than those of the Southern Rhone. In the next Whine I’ll have a small section on the Southern Rhone.
North of Lyon (Burgundy) the Pinot Noir grape is dominant. However, just south of Lyon (Northern Rhone) the main grape is Syrah. Syrah has been grown in this region for perhaps 2000 years. For a long time it was thought that the grape originated in Persia (in a town called Shiraz) but recent DNA research has indicated the grape is indigenous to the Rhone Valley itself.
There are many sub-regions in the Northern Rhone. The wines that one is most likely to find in North American shops are Cote Rotie, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, and St. Joseph. All of these wines benefit from aging. Crozes-Hermitage is usually more affordable than the others. By the way, the Nova Scotia Liqour Commission sells something called Rhone Heritage. Don’t be confused, that is a much inferior wine.
Many of you know that genetically Syrah is the same grape as Shiraz. Most of you are also familiar with the strong, peppery taste of Australian Shiraz. If you try a Syrah from the Northern Rhone you will find that the taste is very, very different. My guess is that if you like Australian Shiraz you will not be impressed with French Syrah and vice versa (I’m in the vice versa group).
Peru and Uruguay: Betty and I are just back from our third trip to South A
merica. This time we were on a cruise that had stops among other places in Peru, Equador, Columbia and Brazil. As you might suspect this was not a wine-tasting holiday. We were too far north and too close to the equator for much grape production. Nonetheless, there are South American wines that don’t come from Argentina or Chile. Peru and Uruguay are trying to get into the mass wine market. I had a few chances to taste wine from these two countries and my initial impressions were not very positive for Uruguay (it may be too rainy there) and much more positive for my small samples of Peruvian wine.A fun way to buy wine: We ate on board ship 27 nights. The wine list in all the ship’s restaurants was extensive with wines in all price ranges. Prices were similar to what you would find in many Canadian restaurants. About 3 days into the cruise there was an announcement of a “Wine Bazaar”. The chief sommelier had decided to c
hange the wine menus and sell off many of the wines which were not to be included (for example a particular vintage where there were only a few bottles left) in the new listings. The deal was that the wines were discounted 30% from the menu price and whatever wine was purchased was kept in the cellar until the diner asked for his or her bottle to be brought up to accompany dinner. A huge crowd gathered at the beginning of the bazaar. However, as the morning progressed fewer people stayed around and with about an hour to go the prices started to drop. By the end customers were asked to make offers on any of the remaining wines. I started by buying wines at 30% off and ended by getting wines about two-thirds off. I was told that I purchased more wine than anybody else on the ship. With some effort I managed to drink it all before disembarking.Price changes? Now that the Canadian dollar is at par with the American we should start to see some small price drops in our European and South American wines. At least I am hoping that this is true. On the other hand, the Chilean earthquake destroyed about 13 million bottles. Chilean wineries south of Santiago were most effected. I know at least one While reader has been stocking up on Montes Alphas on the expectation of a price rise. All Montes wines are good but the Alphas are extra special so I think I’ll find a spot to store an extra case or two.
Cellar Offering 195: Wow! Twenty-four pages of wines from Bordeaux and Bergerac. How does one choose? I am obliged to make at least a few suggestions so here they are:
For those of you who like a crisp, citrus-tasting white wine try # 5567 Chateau Moulin de Launay, AC Entre-Deax-Mers, 2008
For those of you with a little time to cellar a classic red Bordeaux try # 5561 Chateau de Sours Rouge, 2008.
If you want to drink it right away try one of my favorites # 5588 Chateau Chante Alouette, AC Fronsac, 2008
For those of you with deeper pockets you must have some Margaux in your cellar so try # 5595 Chateau Tavac, AC Margaus, Cru Bourgeois 2005. Expensive but ready to drink.
