WHINE # 39
Wines less familiar – Alto Adige: It is always nice to stick to the familiar;
in the case of wine we like to stock up on our favorites, be they an Argentinian
Malbec, or a French Bordeaux. On the
other hand, it is sometimes fun to try the unfamiliar, a little risk and
occasionally a high reward. In this
issue of the Whine I am going to mention wines from three regions that are
perhaps less familiar. It may be difficult
to find wines from the first two regions.
However, the third will be easy.
At the very top of Italy, next to the Austrian border lies
the Alto Adige region. The south facing slopes of the Alps produce
some very fine wines. Naturally one
would expect whites from such a mountainous area. However, all the familiar reds (Pinot,
Cabernet, Merlot) are also produced in considerable volume. In addition, there are two varietals that are
grown almost nowhere else: Schiava and
Lagrein. Unfortunately I have never
tried the former but the latter, particularly in blends, adds a body that
reminds one of the hearty wines of South America. These wines are very difficult to find in
North America, but for those who belong to Opimian watch for any offering of
the wines of Elena Walch. I have tried
several of her wines and have loved them all.
Wines less familiar – Washington State: Many of you are perhaps familiar with the
Pinot Noirs of Oregon. These cool-climate
wines are produced on the slopes of the west side of the mountains. Since Washington is farther north than
Oregon I had always assumed that hot weather wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon,
would not be a good bet. However, while on
a Mediterranean cruise in November I noticed several wines from Washington
State on the dinner menu. I tried three
(not at the same meal) and was particularly impressed with the Chateau Ste.
Michelle Cabernet.
I wondered how Washington could produce wines that to my
taste rivalled those of Napa or Sonoma.
The answer appears to be that the vines are grown on a huge irrigated
desert plateau on the east side of the mountains. Here there are more than 300 cloud-free days
each year and in midsummer there are two more hours of sunshine than there is
in central California.
Since no wines from Washington are available in Nova Scotia
I don’t know when I shall get to try more of these intriguing reds. Perhaps some of you have access to and/or are
familiar with Washington State wines. If
so, I should love to hear from you.
Wines less familiar – Monastrell from Jumilla: When measured by hectares 13.8% of the
world’s vineyards are in Spain. In terms
of volume Spain is the 3rd largest producer of wine and ranks second
in terms of wine exports. Tempranillo is
the most commonly grown red grape in Spain and most of us are familiar with its
sensation of dryness in the mouth, being both low in acid and low in sugar.
If you want a pleasant change, however, try Spain’s second
indigenous red varietal, Monastrell.
Monastrell is also grown in other countries, including France (where the
name has been changed to something more French sounding; i.e. Mourvedre),
California and Chile.
Monastrell is a black grape with thick skins. Thus the wine is high in tannins and well
matched to food high in protein. Jumilla
is the area best known for this variety but it is grown in almost all parts of
Spain.
Here is a recipe for the perfect food match for this
wine. This is an easy recipe, although
it may take you a little time. I assure
you that it is more than worth the effort.
Try it on one of these cold, Canadian winter nights.
BRAISED SHORT RIBS
Makes 4 servings—to
serve more you can increase the meat without increasing the sauce
2 ½ lbs. (about 1 kg) beef short ribs, cut into serving size
pieces
Salt and pepper
2 Tbsp oil
1 stalk celery, diced
3 carrots, diced
1 jalapeno pepper, chopped (optional)
1 onion chopped
3 shallots, chopped
3 large garlic cloves, chopped
2 Tbsp tomato paste
2 Tbsp flour
½ cup port (this adds a nice flavour, but if you don’t have
it the sauce is still good)
2 cups red wine
2 sprigs fresh rosemary (or you can use dried)
8 sprigs fresh thyme (or dried)
3 cups beef stock
Preheat oven to 300 degrees.
Heat oil in a large heavy pot, like a dutch oven. Season the ribs with salt and pepper, and
brown slowly on all sides. Set ribs
aside while you make the sauce.
Add celery, carrots, jalapeno pepper, onion, shallots, and
garlic to the pot and sauté until softened and golden brown, about 7
minutes. Stir often to prevent burning.
Stir tomato paste into vegetable mix. Add flour and stir to combine. Cook for another 2 minutes.
Add port, wine, and herbs.
Turn heat to medium-high and simmer for about 10 minutes, until mixture
begins to reduce. Stir occasionally to
prevent sticking and burning.
Add beef stock and bring sauce to a boil. Return ribs to pot. Cover tightly and put in 300 degree oven for
3 hours.
When done carefully remove ribs from sauce, the meat will be
very tender. Now, if you wish you can
strain the sauce, and spoon off any accumulated fat. But, for a more flavourful sauce, blend in
the cooked vegetables with an immersion blender, or transfer to a blender and
puree.
Bring the sauce to a boil and reduce for about 10
minutes. If you’d like it a little
thicker, thicken with a little corn starch mixed with cold water. Return ribs to sauce, and serve with mashed
potatoes to go with the delicious sauce.
You should have enough leftover sauce to freeze for a second
meal, which will only require browning the ribs and baking in the ready-made
sauce.
This can be made the day before, and reheated on stove very
slowly.
For those who live in Ontario: Vintages is
currently showing in its listings 2009 Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet
Sauvignon for $ 19.95. It is also
available in British Columbia. This incredible rich wine is absolutely
fabulous. Unfortunately for me it is no
longer available at any store in Nova Scotia, and I took the last bottle from
my cellar a couple of nights ago. If you
want a special Cabernet to match your next roast or steak, it will be well
worth your trip to Vintages.
Confessions of a red wine snob: Because I
almost always choose red wine over white wine I have fallen into the delusional
trap of laying out significant portions of my pension funds for quality
Cabernet Sauvignons; then I “save” money by picking up bottom-end Sauvignon
Blancs. And this is the guy who wrote a
thesis (albeit 45 years ago) on the self-fulfilling prophecy.
So, to make amends my
recommendation from this month’s Opimian Offering (#214) is that you go for a
high-end Chablis and an everyday Cabernet.
#6912 Chablis Premier Cru,
Fourchaumes, Jacques Lamblin: As I tend to turn away from French Reds I am
continuing to be impressed with quality Chablis. If you, like me, tend to shy away from white
wine, then try a really good one.
#6948 2012 Paulita
Cabernet Sauvignon: Although very drinkable this is not a great
wine. However, at this price you won’t
complain.
#6922 Bourgogne
Passetoutgrains, AOC, 2010: Absolutely avoid this! I once had a case of this and it tasted as if
one had put 2 ounces of a neighbour’s homemade wine in a highball glass and
then filled the glass to the rim with tap water.
