Tuesday, April 10, 2012

WHINE # 33 - April, 2012

AGING WINE:  In earlier blogs I wrote about aging wines, arguing that every wine has a perfect age.  Some wines are best drunk shortly after they are bottled, others only reach their peak after several years of cellaring.
The question is whether or not I can make a complex topic simple.   Basically there are three variables that determine how long you should store a wine before pulling the cork: 
(1) VARIETAL.   Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Shiraz grapes contain lots of tannins.  It takes time for these tannins to “soften” , allowing the fruit flavor to come forward.  On the other hand, there is no point in cellaring a low tannin varietal such as Gamay (the grape of Beaujolais) or Sangiovese (the grape of Chianti).
 (2)  COUNTRY OF ORIGIN.  Wines from hot, dry countries such as Argentina or Australia are made from grapes that are picked when they are fully ripe or sometimes overripe.  These wines take less long to soften than wines from countries with fewer growing days.  Typically wines from the “Old World” countries(France, Italy, Spain) take much longer to reach perfection; particularly the Cabernets.
 (3)  QUALITY.  More expensive wines are made from selected grapes from old vines.  These high quality wines are more suited to cellaring.  Cheaper wines rarely improve with age.
So, I shall go out on a limb and give you a couple of tables which are very rough approximations of how long you should keep your wines.  In each case add the number in the table to the year on the label and you will have the year at which the wine should be near its peak.
KEY TO TABLES
HIGH TANNIN WINES – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Shiraz
MEDIUM TANNIN WINES – Bonarda, Carmenere, Malbec, Merlot
LOW TANNIN WINES – Gamay, Pinot, Sangiovese
PRICE RANGE
HIGH -$ 40.
MEDIUM - $ 15-$40
LOW - $ 10 - $ 15
NEW WORLD WINES (Reds)
TANNIN
                                                                High                       Medium               Low
Over $ 40                                               6+                              4                           2
Between $ 15 and $ 40                       4                                 3                           1
$ 15 or less                                        3                              2                        0

OLD WORLD WINES (Reds)
TANNIN
                                                                High                       Medium               Low
Over $ 40                                             7+                           5                              2
Between $ 15 and $ 40                     5                              4                              2        
$ 15 or less                                      4                           2                           1

ALBERTA and AMERICAN READERS ONLY:  When visiting Mendoza a few years ago I was given a bottle of 2006 La Flor Cabernet Sauvignon.  It sat in my cellar until a few weeks ago when I decided to share it with Betty.  This inexpensive wine was absolutely fabulous.  Unfortunately, a Google search discovered only one store in Canada that imported this great wine.   That store is located in Calgary (Vino Fino Inc.  Mike Radakovic Edward’s Wine and Spirits).  Of course, if you live in the U.S.A. you can order the wine on line (www.paulhobbsimports.com).
GOOD VALUE FRENCH WINE:   Good value and French do not typically go together.  However, some of the wines from the south of France have reasonable prices, certainly priced well below the classic wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy.
One wine that I recommend is Minervois.  This wine is produced in the very south of France near the enchanting city of Carcassone.  For history buffs, the village of Minerve was the centre of the famous Cathar tragedy.  Minervois is a blend of Carignan, Grenache Noir, Syrah, Cinsault and several other varietals.  The wine is full-bodied, at least as full-bodied as a French wine gets.  Although the wine will age for a few years, it can generally be drunk quite young.
Minervois can be found at your local government store.  Similarly priced to Argentinian Malbec, you might try serving this to your friends and have them guess the country of origin.  My bet is that they will say “New World.”
WINES OF SOUTHEAST ASIA:   I’ve just returned from 4 weeks  of a great holiday in Southeast Asia.  Betty and I loved everything about the countries we visited;  particularly Thailand and Vietnam.  People were friendly, food was excellent, and we can’t wait to return. 

Wine is not a big part of the culture although interest is growing.  The Chinese, in particular, are purchasing more and more wine, especially expensive French wine. 
What can I say about the local wine?  To quote, “a picture is worth a 1000 words.”  Here I am sampling a Vietnamese red.
OFFERING # 209:  This offering contains a number of good Bordeaux, but they are priced more for special occasions, than for everyday drinking.  So if you want to lay down a few bottles of pricey wines, here are two recommendations:  6654 Clos Sainte-Anne Merlot, and for my rich readers 6633 Hortevie AOC Saint-Julien.  This latter wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, is everything a good Bordeaux should be.  This should impress your Chinese business associates.