Wine Whine #9

May Wine Whine

Welcome Edward Langille of Antigonish to the Whine.

For this month’s Whine I had hoped to pass on information on proper temperatures for serving wine. My very good friend Gerard Gleize of Aix-en-Provence sent me lots of tidbits on this subject. However, translation is taking a little longer than I expected; so maybe next time.

Drinking wine in hot weather: Most of us know that there are few pleasures greater than downing a chilled beer after being out in the hot sun. Golfers, for example, have been known to imitate mad dogs and Englishmen and go out at midday. Just as cold beer is best drunk on a hot day, heavy red wine is best with cool weather food, especially when paired with something succulent such as a rare roast of prime rib. So does this mean you should padlock your cellar between June and September?

A few years ago Betty and I were holidaying in Provence in the summer. At lunch (eaten ouside as you would expect) we noticed that we were the only people in the restaurant with a bottle of red wine. At supper (also eaten outside) we were again alone in our choice of beverage. So what were the locals drinking? Rose! Rose! Rose! Chilled rose can be a most magnificent alternative to a cold beer, when your body temperature demands a chilled drink.

In Canada, when many of us think of a pink wine, we think of that horrible stuff that was marketed not so many years ago. Surely you remember “Baby Duck” or some other really bad Canadian wine saturated with sugar. Well, there are wonderful pink wines that are not sweet and that are great in the summer. I think the best ones are from France, but then there are also good roses from Spain and from South America. Try one the next really hot day. Of course, if you really don’t like rose you can always drink sparking wine (not just Champagne from France, but Cava from Spain). Sparking wine is a great summer drink (but then it is also a great Spring, Fall and Winter drink)

Oddly, Canadian ice wine, is not really a summer drink. Ice wine, which is, of course, very, very sweet is not intended to quench a dry thirst. Ice wine is best served with heavier foods. While it is sometimes thought of as a dessert wine, ice wine is perfect before dinner, especially when paired with foie gras, or pate. But here’s a tip. Ice wine is very expensive. So if you don’t want to lay out $ 60 -$ 80. for a half bottle, try a bottle of “late harvest” wine, which sells for ¼ the price and to my palate is indistinguishable from ice wine. Why? In order to be called ice wine, the grapes must have been picked after 8 successive days when the daytime temperature was above freezing and the nightime temperature was below freezing. So what happens if the weather doesn’t co-operate and the grapes have to be picked after only 3 or 4 days of the regime. The stuff is sold as “late harvest” wine and at bargain prices.

Reading Spanish Wine Labels: Although wine has been made in Spain for millenia, quality control has only existed for 30 years or so. Prior to that Spain produced bulk wines. However, the terroir is such that Spain is capable of and does produce great wines, some of which even come at bargain prices.

On the label you will usually find the term “Denominacion de Origen” just under the name of one of the 60 wine zones. This is your guarantee of government controlled quality and is similar to the French “Appellation Controlee”. Wines without this designation should be avoided.

In addition to controlling quality through the name of the region Spain has an excellent system of classification by age. The poorest wines are bottled and sold with no time in casks. These “Joven” wines are to be drunk young. In Canada you will not find the term “Joven” very often but you will find the terms “Crianza”, “Reserva” and “Gran Reserva”. “Crianza” means the wine has been aged at least 24 months with 6 months in a cask; “Reserva” wines develop for 36 months with at least a year in an oak cask. Of course, the very best wines are “Gran Reservas” which have been in a cellar for at least five years and have been in an oak casks for at least 18 months. While many “Crianzas” are good, you will be assured of very good wine when it says “Reserva” and great wine when the label says “Gran Reserva”

Now look for the region. The biggest area in Spain is Rioja, but the best wines come from the Ribera del Duero. Most of these wines are made from the tempranillo grape, which has its own unique taste. When one thinks of Spanish wine one thinks of tempranillo. The wine will usually taste very dry and be more spicy than fruity.
Tempranillo is frequently blended with other Spanish grapes.

If you are a little more adventurous, may I suggest you also try the monastrell grape. Like tempranillo this grape is grown mostly in Spain. Monastrell tastes fruitier than tempranillo and is “bigger”, meaning you could confuse it for a New World wine. The best Monastrells come from Jumilla.

Cellar Offering 189: The last offering from Opimian listed the wines of Bordeaux. This offering has wines from the other important area (Burgundy) as well as from the also famous Loire Valley and from the South of France. World class cabernets and merlots come from Bordeaux; Burgundy is famous for Pinot Noirs and Syrahs. The Loire Valley is most know for its white wines. However, in some ways the most interesting wines are now from the South. At least, the best bargains in French wines are from Provencee and Languedoc-Roussilon. Growers are under fewer restrictions in the South and are able to experiment, including the making of bigger, bolder wines for the North American market.

I have 3 recommendations: First, you might consider # 5102 Pouilly Fume 2008 from Domaine Mollet-Maudry. Expensive but Sauvignon Blanc like you may never have tasted.

Since I pushed roses (above) I suggest that 5138 Grenache rose, Vine de Pays D’oc, 2008, Domaine Peiriere. Perhaps a real bargain.

My final recommendation is an absolute must. 5125 Chateau Salitis, AOC Cabardes, 2007 will be great. I bought a case of the 2005 which is just coming into its own. This blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, syrah and grenache will forever put to rest the myth that French wines are thin and weak. This stuff is fabulous.

An odd holiday: On Monday Betty and I are off to do something really strange. We are going on a holiday where there are no vineyards of importance and where we are not even bothering to take our golf clubs. Perhaps we have taken leave of our senses. However, we are told that we must see the Baltic States and St. Petersburg before we die, so we shall suffer through, the best we can, all the symptoms of wine and golf withdrawal. Wish us well!



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