WHINE # 77

MUCH MORE ON ITALIAN WINES

WINE TASTING IN ITALY:  Wine is produced in all regions of Italy, and as the world’s largest exporter of wines, there are countless wines to try.   Naturally when one thinks of wine tasting one thinks of visiting vineyards and sampling there.  However, in Italy an alternative is to drop in at one the hundreds of Enotecas.  An Enoteca is a wine shop that features local wines, and in particular wines from some of the smaller vineyards.  Each Enoteca has a tasting room, and if you purchase even one bottle the tasting fee is waived.  Many Enotecas also have food, and a wonderful way to have lunch is to order food and taste different wines with the foods. 

If you prefer to taste wine at a winery, that is also possible.  However, wineries in Italy tend to be closed at lunchtime and one should check ahead before driving any distance to a particular winery.  Because a small winery’s products are available at the nearby Enotecas, the winery may not even bother having a retail outlet.

In a November trip to Italy Betty and I wanted to visit a couple of regions of southern Italy that are not high on North American tourists’ bucket lists.  First we visited Abruzzo and had several tastings of that regions famous wine, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  The highlight of our holiday, however, was travelling to Basilicata (instep of the boot) where we were seeking the perfect bottle of Aglianico.  As I have written in previous blogs, Aglianico is perhaps the best wine of Italy, and most Aglianicos come from Basilicata.  The very best comes from the base of Mount Vulture (thus the name Aglianico del Vulture.)  This wine, rich in both acid and tannin, is one of my very favorite wines.  We were not disappointed in the wines we found, both at the vineyards and in the Enotecas.

As an aside, Basilicata is a great region to visit and I can’t recommend too much a stop at the ancient city of Matera.  Here people lived in caves for 9,000 years (more-or-less right up until 1952).  We, in fact, rented a suite in a cave hotel and spent three nights there.  We spent our days exploring the area and ate all our meals in cave restaurants and had one of the best lunches ever in an Enoteca set deep in an ancient cistern.  By the way, Aglianica also comes from Campania and from Puglia, but the bulk is from Basilicata.

ITALY VERSUS THE WORLD:  During the Christmas holiday season we usually host a wine-tasting.  We invite a number of friends to blind-taste a series of wines.  Following our November Italian wine tasting we chose as this year’s theme “Italy versus the World”.

Sparkling wines made up our first flight.  The Italian wine was a LaMarca Prosecco from Veneto.  Pitted against this inexpensive wine was a Duval-LeRoy Champagne Brut Reserve, and a Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve from Nova Scotia.  Guests tasted the three wines in random order and in some cases re-tasted one or more of them.

For those interested in bargains, the Prosecco was the clear choice of 11 tasters; five tasters chose the moderately priced Nova Scotian wine, and only four chose the much more expensive Champagne.

I should like to note, however, that the Prosecco was quite a bit lighter in both colour and alcohol content than either of the other two.  This would make it an “easier drinking” wine and that perhaps explains the choice of the majority.

For the second flight I wanted to try a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, so I chose an Opimian Founders’ Choice 2013.  As Montepulicaino is an acidic wine I chose a New World acidic wine (a Zinfandel--Cline Ancient Vines 2013) as a comparison.  Here the Italian wine was not a winner, losing 12-9 to the wine from California.   I think most guests found the two wines quite similar and the choice was not easy.

Finally, for flight three I had to choose an Aglianico; a 2006 Falerno Del Massico from Campania.  As Aglianico is high in tannins I pitted this wine against one of my very favorite Malbecs, a 2013 Trapiche Gran Medalla.  Thus, I was asking my guests to compare two of my most loved wines.

Although close, the Aglianico was preferred by 12 tasters, with 8 tasters liking the Malbec.   One taster was simply unable to decide.

In sum the Italian wines won two out of the three competitions.  If you tend to avoid Italian wines, perhaps because of bad experiences with cheap Chiantis or even cheaper Valpolicellas, then perhaps it’s time for you to try some of the other Italian wines; in particular reds from the South or sparkling wines from the North.

GLASS SIZES:  A recent British study indicates that wine glass sizes have been gradually increasing for hundreds of years, but particularly since 1990.  Also, the study shows that drinkers will go for a second glass more quickly when drinking the same amount of wine from a large glass as opposed to from a small glass.

My take on that is that the wine actually tastes better from a large glass, as the large glass gives off more aroma.  Thus the wine goes down quicker and easier and a refill seems more urgent.

WHINE # 76 - NORTH VERSUS SOUTH:  The wines of Italy

Italy is the world’s second largest producer of wine (after France) and the second largest exporter of wine (after Spain).  Needless to say Italy has a great variety of wines in terms of price, quality and style. 

Most Italian wines are made from varietals that are unique or semi-unique to Italy.   There are few (with the exception of something called Super Tuscans—see below) wines made from the world’s dominant varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, etc.  In fact, each Italian region tends to have its own specific grape.

For simplicity Italian wines divide nicely into those from north of Naples and those south. 

Northern Italian wines:  For a very long time wine lovers have thought of the good wines of Italy as coming only from the north.  While wines are produced in all regions of Italy the more famous wines come from the northern regions of Piedmont, Verona, and Tuscany.   Piedmont’s specific varietal is Nebbiola and the most famous Nebbiola is Barola.  Barola is rich and smooth but tends to be very expensive.  Piedmont also produces a varietal called Barbera, which tends to be very acidic.

Sangiovese is the most widely grown grape in all of Italy, and it is particularly associated with Tuscany.  Sangiovese is the basis of well-known Chianti, and also of Brunello di Montepulciano.  Brunello di Montepulciano rivals Barola in reputation and price.

In more recent years Tuscany has produced Bordeaux-type blends (Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in particular) that are marketed as Super Tuscans.  Although generally very good they are never inexpensive.

Finally, a third world famous wine of northern Italy is called Amarone or more properly  Valpolicella dela Amarone. This wine in double fermented and like other Valpolicellas is made from the Corvina grape.

If you see a theme here it is that the good wines of northern Italy tend to be pricey.  The other characteristic that they have in common is that they tend to be high in acid.  This, of course, makes them food wines, rather than sipping wines.

Southern Italian wines:  For a very long time vintners in southern Italy tended toward producing bulk wines that were intended for the local market, or which were shipped north for blending.

About 30 years ago, however, producers began to realize that there was more money to be made from concentrating their efforts on lower yields but higher quality.  The results have been dramatic.  By carefully crafting wines from indigenous varietals wine makers are now giving us delightful yet very affordable wines.\

Wines from the south tend to be darker, fruitier and definitely less acidic than wines from the north.  Generally they are more tannic.

If you are looking for wonderful everyday reds here are five varietals to try and I am sure you will enjoy any of them. 

Montepulciano di Abruzzo:  This is the second most produced wine in Italy, after Sangiovese.  Be careful, however, not to confuse this wine with Brunello di Montepulciano.  In the latter case the grape is Sangiovese and the name comes from the town in Tuscany.  Montepulciano is also the name of a varietal and it most commonly comes from the Abruzzo region.  Although there are a few expensive Montepulcianos, many are quite reasonable in price and can be drunk on their own (as they are low in acid) or with food  that is not too high in protein.

Nero d’avola:  This is the great wine of Sicily.  Coming from a hot climate this wine is full-bodied, fruit driven, bold and with lots of tannins.  The next time you are having a steak and don’t want to pair it with an expensive Cabernet Sauvignon, try a Nero d’avola.

Negroamaro and Primitivo:  The Puglia region produces two varietals.  Negroamaro is a black grape that is rustic and fruity.  Like other southern Italian wines it is big and bold and pairs exceptionally well with braised short ribs.  On the other hand, Primitivo is a little lighter with more acid.  It has been argued that Primitivo is the same as Californian Zinfandel.  Whether it is or not is a question best left to botanists.  However, if you like Zinfandel, try its cheaper cousin or brother or whatever it is.

Aglianico:  I have left the best for the last.  Aglianico is a wonderful wine from Bascilicata (the instep of the boot of Italy).  Unlike other southern regions of Italy, Bascilicata always produced quality rather than bulk wines.  Aglianico is somewhat unique in that it is high in both acid and tannin.  The flavour is thus wonderful.  In fact, this is my favorite wine of all of Italy, north or south.  Aglianico is usually a little more expensive than other southern Italian wines but it is well worth the price difference.  In fact, next month I am heading to Bascilicata in search of the perfect bottle.

Country restaurants:  Any French gourmand will tell you that the best restaurants in France are not in Paris.  The same holds in Canada.  Forget the over-priced places in Toronto or Vancouver and seek out those special spots in the back-of-the-beyond.  In the past few weeks we have enjoyed two meals that were simply incredible.  First we visited “The Wild Caraway” in West Advocate.  West Advocate is ½ hour’s drive past Parrsboro, and as you know, Parrsboro is at the end of the world.  The second phenomenal meal was had at “The Rossmount Inn” in Chambrook, N.B. (near St. Andrew’s).  It would be hard to choose between these two places in terms of the food.  However, The Rossmount had the better wine list.  One word of caution, however.  Don’t even think about trying to score a table at either place unless you make a reservation well in advance.

Whine # 75

MATEUS:  Those of you of my advanced generation will remember drinking certain inexpensive wines partly because of the exotic shapes of the bottles.  In college we all drank straw-covered bottles of cheap Chianti so that we could use the empties as candle holders.  Another favorite from the 60's was Portuguese Mateus, a slightly sparkling (actually crackling) rose.

A few months ago in a fit of nostalgia I purchased a bottle of Mateus and was surprised that I quite liked it.  Flash forward a bit to a warm summer night when we invited a few friends over for a backyard barbeque.  As we sat under our apple trees and had pre-dinner drinks I decided to serve chilled Mateus.  For comparison I also served a standard rose from Bordeaux, handing each guest two glasses simultaneously.  Not telling anybody what they were drinking I asked my guests to simply tell me which rose they preferred.  You guessed it, 4 out of 5 much preferred the Mateus to the more expensive Bordeaux.  Thus, if you are looking for a very inexpensive summer drink, Mateus is available in Nova Scotia for $13 per bottle; and at the LCBO stores in Ontario it is listed for only $10.05

Chilled rose is a great drink on a hot summer day.  Roses are made from a great variety of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Carmenere.  Obviously these wines taste different from one another and I leave it to you to decide which you prefer.  My personal preference is Chilian rose, made from Pinot Noir.

Finally, rose must be served well chilled.  It is definitely not cold enough if brought straight from your wine refrigerator.  I like to chill the wine in an ice bucket for at least a couple of hours before pulling the cork.

THE HATFIELD HOUSE:  Ocassionally one finds an exceptional restaurant that is not in a city and that does not attract much press.  Last summer I described a great meal at the Red Cap Inn in West Pubnico (see Whine # 73).  This summer I discovered a very special restaurant not far from West Pubnico in the tiny Acadian village of Tusket (home of Canada's oldest courthouse).  Both restaurants feature seafood, but the Hatfield House is more toward the fine dining end of the spectrum.

The Hatfield House was built in 1793 by Abigail Price, a "widowed Black woman".  Unfortunately not much is known about her but my guess is she had a very interesting history.  The house sits on a beautiful lot on the east bank of the Tusket River.  We were fortunate to have a window seat in the 45-seat restaurant and stayed long after we had finished eating in order to watch a spectacular sunset over the wide river.

The restaurant is open Wednesday to Sunday from May until December.  As mentioned it is primarily a seafood restaurant, but we have never had more fresh or better prepared haddock, lobster, etc.  Although the wine list is short, it is adequate, and the food prices are very reasonable.

If you are looking for a holiday in southern Nova Scotia, drive past the traditional tourist towns of Chester, Mahone Bay and Liverpool and have some magnificent food at the Red Cap Inn in West Pubnico and The Hatfield House in Tusket.

AGLIANICO:  World-wide there are perhaps 2,000 different wine varietals being produced.  However, as time passes more and more vineyards choose to produce a small number of well-known, popular grapes.  In terms of red wines, perhaps 90% of the wines that you find available will be single varietals or blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Grenache.

One lesser known varietal is very slowly taking its place among the world's great varietals.  Produced mostly in the southern regions of Italy (Basilicata and Campagnia) Aglianico (pronouced Allee-ann-nico) is a fantastic wine that deserves attention by lovers of big, robust wines.

As you know wines (particularly reds) vary widely in terms of their acidity, presence of tannins, and alcohol content.  Cabernet Sauvignon, Monastrell and Malbec are high in tannins but low in acidity.  Pinot Noir and Grenache are also low in acid but also relatively low in tannins.  On the other hand Sangiovese and Montepulciano are high in acid and low in tannin.

What makes Aglianico almost unique is that it is high in both tannins and acid.  Perhaps the only other wine that has these characterists is Nebbiolo from Peidmont.  Of course decent Nebbiolo tends to be very expensive and thus very seldom finds its way to my table.  The downside of being high in both tannins and acid is that the wine usually needs long aging to hit its peak.  Aglianico is best when it is between 10 and 20 years old.  Fortunately for me I recently discovered a cache of 2006 wines on sale at the Port in Halifax.  I quickly bought out their rather small supply.

Aglianico is an earth-driven wine with a hint of a taste of leather.  Because of its acidity it stands up to barbeque sauce, and because of its tannins it is wonderful with high fat meats.

On my bucket list is a trip to Basilicata to find the perfect bottle of Aglianico.  If all goes well this should happen in early November.

Winewhine # 74

WHINE # 74

Changes to the Whine:   When I posted my first Whine in 2008 it was mainly directed at members of the Opimian Society, some of whom wanted suggestions as to what to buy from the wine club’s offerings.  Thus, I posted a blog each time the Opimian Society sent a catalogue to its members.

Since 2008 there have been a number of changes.  First, fewer of those to whom I send notices  are members of the Opimian Society.  Second, the Opimian Society now makes more frequent offerings.  Therefore, by linking my blogs to the Society’s timetable the result is more frequent blogs than I wish to post.

Starting with this Blog there will be two changes.  First, I shall not be making recommendations for wines to purchase from Opimian.  Second, I shall now be posting blogs only quarterly.

An addendum to Leftover wine:  After posting my last blog, which included some advice for what to do with leftover wine, I heard from a reader who noted that she quite liked the “Coravin” system for preserving wine.  Coravin is a device whereby a needle is inserted through the cork of a bottle, some wine is poured out, and argon gas is inserted into the bottle.  Once the needle is withdrawn the wine is completely sealed and the inert argon gas prevents spoilage of the wine in the now partially filled bottle.  The system costs $ 300 to $ 400 and one must buy cannisters of argon at something less than $ 10. 

I have not tried this system and wonder how it works with plastic corks and more importantly screw-top wines.  As most of us know all Australian wines are screw-top and most countries (except France, Spain and Portugal) are relying less and less on traditional corks.

Albarino/Alvarhino:  I don’t have a favorite red wine; there are simply too many that I like.  On the other hand, the list of my white wine favorites is quite short, and Albarino is at the top of the list.  Albarino comes from Galacia (the best being from Raix Baixas) in Northwest Spain.  Although quite high in acidity it’s flavor is more apricot or peach than lemon or lime.  It is a very smooth (high in glycerol) wine that is moderately heavy (11.5% -12.5% alcohol).  It is the perfect accompaniment for shellfish.  I find it quite similar to Viognier, and not dissimilar from an unoaked Chardonnay. 

Although primarily produced in Spain Albarino is making inroads in California and Australia.  In Portugal the same grape is called Alvarhino and it is used in some of the better Vinho Verdes.  However, Vinho Verde tends to come from very high production vineyards and the alcohol content is usually no more than 9%.  Thus, a Spanish Albarino and a Portuguese Vinho Verde (even when high in Alvarhino) are quite different.

If you like unoaked American Chardonnay or if you like French Chablis, why not expand your horizons and try a Spanish Albarino?

Syrah/Shiraz/Petite Syrah/Petite Sirah:  While it is easy to get confused about these varietals, it is well worth sorting them out.  Let’s start with Syrah  Although grown in many parts of the world (Australia, California, South America) Syrah is most associated with the northern Rhone Valley.  Syrah from the northern Rhone (but it is also grown in the southern Rhone) is a light colored, relatively thin wine with hints of scented flowers.  Some of the best vintages are capable of many years aging.

When grown in Australia Syrah is called Shiraz and it is Australia’s most popular red varietal.  Syrah and Shiraz are exactly the same grape; yet, a French Syrah and an Australian Shiraz taste very different.  An Australian Shiraz is darker in color, has more alcohol content, and tastes peppery.  Probably the difference is due to the much hotter Australian climate, although the intentions of the wine-makers may also contribute to the difference.

Petite Syrah:  There is a strain of Syrah with slightly smaller berries.  Some growers in Burgundy as well as in California refer to this strain as Petite Syrah.  There is not a lot of this wine produced; thus, I mention it only because of the confusion with the next varietal that I shall describe.

Petite Sirah:  In California there is a varietal that is exploding in popularity called Petite Sirah.  In actual fact the varietal is properly called Durif.  However, you will much more likely find this wine labelled Petite Sirah.  Durif, or Petite Sirah, is a cross between Syrah and Peloursin.  It is very different from Syrah; darker, more tannic, tasting of dense blackberry.  This is one of my very favorite wines.  It is a very good substitute for Cabernet Sauvignon when pairing with red meats.  On a recent cruise we had a drinks’ package whereby we were offered a choice of 30 wines each night with dinner.  Although many of the wines were excellent, most nights I ended up starting my dinner with a glass of Albarino (Betty usually started with either French Champagne or Prosecco).  After that we most often switched to Petite Sirah with our main courses. 

If you like heavy, tannic wines and you haven’t tried Petite Sirah/Durif then a treat awaits you.

   

WHINE # 73

LEFTOVER WINE:   Occasionally (in my case rarely) there is wine left in the bottle.  The question is how to keep it for the next day.   Still white wine is rarely a problem.  Replace the cork, or simply cover the neck of the bottle with plastic wrap, and put it in the refrigerator.  It will be fine for two or three days.

Still reds don’t keep nearly as well as whites, but sealed and kept cold they will probably be fine the next day.  There are devices on the market that extract the air from the bottle in order to slow the deterioration of the wine.  I have not found these to work all that well.  The main thing is to not leave the bottle on the counter.  Oxidation occurs much faster when the wine is warm.

All of this leads me to the problem of leftover sparkling wine.  It is always a treat to share a glass of bubbly as a starter to a meal.  However, one frequently wants to switch to a still wine when the food arrives, particularly if it is red meat.  What do you now do with a half bottle of Champagne or Cava or Prosecco?

Clearly the special corks that are used for sparkling wines (you know the ones that rapidly expand once pulled), like a genie, cannot be put back in the bottle.  Nonetheless, the wine must be sealed completely; otherwise the effervescence will dissipate and the wine will be ruined.    I recently discovered that if you put the wine in a plastic water bottle (and a 500 ml bottle may be the perfect size for the leftover bubbly) and tightly screw on the cap, the wine will be just as bubbly the next day. 

One final bit of advice:  When you open the plastic bottle do so out of sight of whomever you are serving.  There is nothing elegant about pouring $ 60. Champagne from a plastic water bottle.

LOUIS MARTINI:  Like many others I love a good Cabernet Sauvignon and like most others I think the best Cabs come from California.  Unfortunately California Cabs have been rising in price, and it is not always easy to find a good but affordable Cabernet.

One California winery that stands out for value is Louis Martini.  In 1933 Louis Martini, an Italian immigrant, was one of the first five to open a winery in the Napa Valley following prohibition.  His winery mostly produced bulk wines, but also some better wines.  In 2002 the winery was purchased by Gallo (largest wine company in the world) and the quality of the wines has been steadily improving since that acquisition.  I should point out that the grandson, Michael Martini, is still involved and manages the winery.

Why am I writing about this particular winery?  First, the wines are widely available (Quebec being an unusual exception) and, second, Louis Martini produces  a wide range of fine Cabernets.

For everyday affordable drinking their entry level Cabernet is simply called Louis Martini Sonoma.  More expensive but worth the price jump is either the Louis Martini Alexander Valley or the Louis Martini Napa.  For very special occasions the Louis Martini Monte Rossa Series is magnificent.  Finally their top wine is called Lot 1.  I can’t comment on this one because it’s definitely out of my price range.

RED CAP INN:  It is always great to find a restaurant that has good food and that also allows you to bring your own wine for only a corkage fee.  This past summer while travelling in Nova Scotia we decided to stay at the Red Cap Inn in West Pubnico.  The restaurant has a reputation for excellent fresh seafood.  We were not disappointed. 

The 6-room motel was clean, comfortable and basic.  The restaurant was modest in décor, but offered incredibly fresh seafood at very low prices.  West Pubnico, of course, is one of Nova Scotia’s most successful fishing villages.  To our surprise there was no corkage fee, even though the restaurant had its own wines and spirits available.

Finally, we lucked out in that we were there on a night when they had live music.  Our expectations were not particularly high, but our chanteuse, Yvette d’Entremont,  kept us in the restaurant until closing.  And we now frequently play one of her CD’s.  If you ever get a chance to hear  her sing, don’t pass it up.

If you haven’t been to West Pubnico, it’s a lovely place for a summer visit.  Drop down to the wharf and watch the large fleet of fishing boats, take along a good bottle of wine to the Red Cap Inn, and don’t forget a visit to the West Pubnico Golf and Country Club.

OPIMIAN OFFERING 247:  Although this offering features some fine Chablis and some excellent reds from northern Italy, my recommendations are for two inexpensive but very drinkable wines from the south of Italy.  9029 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo goes with heavier food, and 9045 Colpasso Nero D’Avola from Sicily will be perfect with pasta and Sicilian sausage.

                                                            WHINE # 72

WINE TASTING IN SOUTH AFRICA:   My experience with South African wines is relatively limited, largely due to the paucity of decent SA wines available in Nova Scotia.  Thus, I had been looking forward for some time for the chance to taste some of the better wines from this part of the world.

We arrived in South Africa on January 2 and on our first night in Cape Town we ate in a fabulous restaurant, and had a great wine chosen more-or-less by random from an extensive wine list.  The waiter said I made a very good choice, but when is a waiter going to say:  "Why did you pick that one, it's awful?"

The next day we had a full-day tour in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek.  Our guide was knowledgeable and also flexible, taking a side trip to the Thelema Winery so I could re-try the wine from the night before.  And it was just as good in the daylight hours.  We also stopped at several wineries in the Stellenbosch area, the most impressive being one owned by the golfer Ernie Els.  The wine tasted great, but it was the beauty of the place that impressed most.

The town of Franschoek is quite beautiful and has a wine train taking passengers through nearby vineyards.  Perhaps next time we might even get to stay there.

What did I  learn about South African wines?  First, some of them are very good, especially if you like New World wines that are full-bodied with lots of flavours.  If you preference is for a thin Old World wine, such as a Pinot from Burgundy then these wines are not for you.  Perhaps what I could suggest is that if you like Australian wines, you probably will like the better wines of South African, even down to the taste of Eucalyptes.

PINOTAGE:  Just as Argentina has Malbec and Chile has Carmenere, South Africa has its own distinct variety.  And, Pinotage was not first developed someplace else.  It is truly an indigenous cross (not a hybrid, although only a botanist knows the difference) between Pinot Noir and Cinsault.  Deep ruby in colour, it has a smoky taste, but also may have too much Acetone, thus sometimes smelling like paint.  Pinotage is not my favorite wine, but so what.

TIDAL BAY:  In a previous blog I touched on wine tasting this past summer in Nova Scotia.  The wine that I liked the best was a Tidal Bay from Grand Pre.  Tidal Bay is Nova Scotia's only appellation wine and is a blend of several obscure varieties.  How good is this wine?  In order to find out  I decided to be objective.  Twice in blind tastings I have paired a Grand Pre Tidal Bay against a better known white.

In late summer I paired Tidal Bay against a standard white Bordeaux.  This tasting occurred at the Maritime Seniors Golf Association annual meet.  After a long day on the golf course a slight majority of golfers preferred the Tidal Bay.  Then at Christmas I paired a Tidal Bay against a Sauvignon Blanc (Nautilaus from New Zealand).  This time sixteen of the blind-tasters chose the Tidal  Bay over the more expensive wine, which was only chosen by five drinkers.   And you thought that  there are no good wines from Nova Scotia.  On the other hand, I have resisted any temptation to put a Nova Scotian red wine up against a known wine from any of the classic red wine countries.

Incidentally Nova Scotia's best selling wine is a sparkler from Benjamin Bridge called Nova Seven.  I find this wine a little sweet for my taste, but the slightly more expensive Benjamin Bridge Classic suits me just fine.

OPIMIAN OFFERING 246:  Only once per year does Opimian offer wines from South America.  I always save my pennies (not that Canadian pennies exist any more) and load up.  There are lots of choices but my favorities are the wines of Cornellana and Casa Nueva.  I recommend 8949 a Syrah/Carmenere and 8961 a Cuvee Gran Reserva.

WHINE # 71 – Christmas 2016

Christmas Dinner:   I am sometimes asked what wine is best matched to traditional Christmas dinner.  The short answer is whatever wine you like, but that answer is really a “cop-out”.   So, let’s assume that Christmas dinner is roast turkey with all the trimmings, and let’s assume you want a white wine with the white meat.  My suggestion is a chardonnay from California.  Your turkey probably comes with a rich, creamy gravy, and a relatively heavy, buttery chardonnay will match very well.  While I usually prefer  French Chablis to the heavier wine from California in this case I suggest you go with a new world wine.

On the other hand you may be a red wine drinker and you are not going to switch to white just because it’s Christmas.  Now the traditional advice for matching a red wine with turkey would be in the opposite direction to that given for a white wine match..  Instead of a heavy wine you will usually be advised to go with a light red; Pinot Noir being the standard choice.  This holds true for many preparations of turkey.  However, if you are a Maritimer like me you grew up with a bread and potato stuffing spiced heavily with summer savory.  My plate on Christmas day will have lots of this very spicy stuffing smothered with rich, creamy gravy.   Thus, I can go with a heavy, spicy wine, even something like an Australian Shiraz.  Confused?  Don’t worry, just open any moderately expensive bottle and enjoy.

A very special bottle:  Generally speaking, and there are lots of exceptions, the more expensive the bottle the better the wine.  But the relationship is definitely not a linear one.  Thus If you find that a $ 20 bottle tastes twice as good as a $ 10 bottle it doesn’t follow that a $ 100 bottle will be twice as good as one costing $ 50.  Just maybe it will be slightly better.

Naturally we all seek a price point where we get the maximum value; expensive  enough to be good, but cheap enough to be affordable.    Most times I choose a $ 20 bottle and only occasionally go up to $ 50.  Going above that point I generally find only a very slight increase in quality.  In other words, although the quality of the wine may be a little better, its value is a lot worse.

This leads me to my one great exception.  A few years ago my son talked me into buying a bottle of Penfolds Grange (vintage 2005).  I paid $ 340 for the single bottle.   I then very carefully laid it away wondering what occasion would justify pulling the cork. 

Well this summer an occasion arose that led me to open this wine.   My wife of 51 years had returned home from 16 days in the hospital; 11 of them in intensive care, several of those days on life support.   And, she was on her way to a full recovery. 

Once Betty had reached the point in her slow recovery that she could appreciate a good wine I decided to open my one bottle of Penfolds (I checked online and the 2005 vintage was now selling for just under $ 800).  With great care I pulled the cork and very carefully poured four exactly evenly filled glasses.  My wife, my son, my daughter-in-law and I sniffed the glass, rolled a little of the wine over our tongues, sniffed again, and eventually swallowed the most expensive glass any of us had ever tasted.

So how was it?  Speaking only for myself I can state that I had never experienced a wine with such a long finish.  The wine had nuances of chocolate and tobacco, but then so do lots of wines.  It was the length of the aftertaste that made the biggest impression.  I can honestly say that I never had a better wine, even if I have had many, many bottles of greater value.

Now, of course, it’s back to $ 20 wine, and perhaps on Christmas Eve I’ll even uncork a bottle of the $ 50 stuff. 

Blush versus Rose:  Some claim that Blush and Rose are two names for the same thing.  Uh-uh!  Blush is a mixture of white and red wine.  On the other hand, rose is made from red grapes, where the skins are removed early in the fermintation process;  before the mash turns red.  Anyway, it’s the wrong season for either, so I’ll say no more.

Opimian Offering 245:  This offering primarily has wines from South Africa.  I almost never drink South African wine, having never found a bottle that I really liked.  Consequently most of the wines are not familiar to me and I shall not make any recommendations.    However, I shall be doing a wine tour of Stellenbosch on January 4 and just maybe this will change my assessment of South African wines.

WHINE # 70

Welcome Dr. Ron Sawchuk of Prior Lake, Minnesota and Dr. Monika Thabur of Antigonish, N.S. to the Whine.

MALBEC:   In my past blogs I have many times indicated my liking of Malbecs;  particularly those from Argentina.  Recently my friend Jim asked me why I liked a wine with such an awful name.  It had never occurred to me that Malbec might literally translate as “bad nose.”  Perhaps the worst thing one could say about a wine. 

Intrigued I did a google search and learned that the name may have come from a Hungarian peasant, named Malbeck, who travelled around France planting wines.  There was even a hint that he had been working for a Cornish spy, but only a hint.  

Malbec appears to have come originally from France , where it is usually called Cot.  Originally a blending wine it is now only grown in Cahors in the south of France.  Cot is generally not very good and quite inferior to its South American cousin    Malbec as a single varietal did not come into favour until it was planted in Argentina, where it has now flourished for over a century.

Although Malbec is typically called Cot in France, when it is exported to Canada it is labelled French Malbec or simply Malbec.  Obviously marketing is critical and Canadians are familiar with the name Malbec but not with Cot.  In any event, my advice to you is to stick to the wine from Argentina, it is much superior to the wine from Cahors.

WINES OF NOVA SCOTIA:   For a long time I have avoided drinking Canadian wines; particularly those from Ontario and from my home province of Nova Scotia.  Primarily I am a red wine drinker and most growing areas in Canada do not have enough days of warm sunshine to produce popular red varietals such as Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon.  For example, for Cabernet grapes to ripen about 220 growing days are required.  In Nova Scotia in a good year we may get 190.

My anti-Canadian (and in particular anti-Nova Scotian) bias has been pointed out to me on several occasions, and in response I decided to try and be a little more objective and try to taste Nova Scotia wines with a more open mind.   This led to a short wine tour of the province (with a few stops for golf).  First stop was at the tiny Petite Riviere winery on the south shore.   The winery is currently owned by Antigonisher Sean Sears.  This winery offers exceptionally friendly tours and we ended up tasting 8 of the vineyards wines.  All were drinkable and the whites were particularly good.  Their Seyval Blanc, called Risser’s Breeze, I found particularly refreshing.

Wolfville Magic Winery Bus:  Most of Nova Scotian wineries are to found in the Annapolis Valley; not surprisingly since this area has the best weather.  A fabulous way to visit some of these wineries is to take the Magic Winery Bus.  This double-decker bus runs continuously on a loop through Wolfville, stopping at four different wineries.  One hops off, stays for an hour at a winery (or two hours if you are having lunch).  Hop back on and go to the next winery.    Two of the stops I particularly liked.   At Grand Pre Wineries there are beautiful vistas of the Annapolis Valley and the winery itself, including the restaurant, is very elegant.  Luckett’s winery is newer but also has great vistas of Cape Blomidon.  Lunch at Luckett’s is an experience not to be missed.  Not only is the food great, but the restaurant is outside (under a canopy) and the atmosphere is wonderful.

How good are Nova Scotian wines?  After tasting many different Nova Scotian wines this summer my conclusion is that the Reds are drinkable but not up to world standards.  On the other hand, Nova Scotia makes very good sparkling wines, excellent dry whites, and the ice wines are unexcelled.  Nova Scotia’s feature white  is called Tidal Bay.  Tidal Bay is Nova  Scotia’s only appellation wine.    In order to be called Tidal Bay each year a winemaker submits his/her wine to a tasting panel.    The wine must be a blend of specific varietals (including L’Acadie Blanc, Vidal and Seyval) and cannot contain more than 11 per cent alcohol.  Tidal Bay wines are crisp and light, but with lots of flavour.  My favorite is the one made by Grand Pre, which incidentally won gold this year as the best Tidal Bay.

Beaujolais Nouveau:   Once a year I feel the need to remind you of a wine to avoid.  Each November you will find large displays of Beaujolais Nouveau at your local wine outlet.  Don’t be fooled by this famous marketing ploy.  Beaujolais Nouveau is a thin, slightly acidic wine that won’t hold up to any food match and isn’t very nice for sipping.  This is not to say that there are not very tasty Beaujolais, there are, just not this one.

Travel Blog:  Some of you know that I have two blogs; this one on wine, and a blog on travel.  My travel blog is written and posted only when a trip (usually a cruise) is being taken.  Thus, I have not made a posting in some time, but in January and early February Betty and I will be visiting South Africa and a number of countries along the eastern side of that continent.  We will also be crossing the Indian Ocean to the sub-continent and beyond.  If any of you Whiners are interested in reading my travel blog please let me know and I’ll add your e-mail address to the distribution list so that you are notified when a travel blog is posted.

Opimian Offering 244:  The first offering of the season features wines from Australian and New Zealand.  Although pricey I recommend 8800 Briar Ridge Old Vines Shiraz.  Slightly more moderately priced are 8827 GMH Meritage and 8844 Shottesbrooke Estate Series Shiraz.  In any event my recommendation is to stick to Shiraz.  Although there are other good wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, from Downunder, nobody makes better Shiraz than those from Oz.

WHINE # 69

“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy wine and that’s kind of the same thing.”

END OF SEASON:   As I indicated in earlier blogs my Whines are posted to coincide with offerings of the Opimian Society.  As Opimian 243 is the last offering of the season I shall not be writing further blogs until mid-fall.  I sincerely hope you have enjoyed the past season of Whines and thank you very much for reading them.

WINES OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST:  It’s now been 40 years since Steven Spurrier shattered the wine world with his famous blind comparison of the wines of Napa Valley with the best wines of France (see Whine 59).  Since 1976 the United States has become the fourth largest producer of wines in the world, and Californian wines are now considered by many to be the very best in the world. 

It is easy to assume that in the U.S. only California makes good wine.  In fact there are many other states that now take wine making very seriously.  Two of those states are Oregon and Washington.  Oregon, of course, lies north of California and the climate is considerably cooler.  For that reason Oregon, the fourth largest producer in the U.S., has specialized in cool weather varietals.  Some of the world’s best Pinot Noirs come from Oregon.

North of Oregon lies the state of Washington which has 43,000 acres of vines under cultivation.  It is second only to California in terms of production.  Washington wines are exported to 40 different countries. The major wine-growing area lies east of the Cascade Mountains in an area of shrub-steppes.  The climate is much warmer than that of Oregon, where the grapes are grown on the Pacific side of the Cascades.  Washington’s wine growing area is essentially a desert and during the growing season it has two hours more sunshine per day than does the Napa Valley.  Combined with hot daytime sunshine and cold nights the climate is ideal for growing grapes.  In addition, the soils are perfect with centuries of volcanic deposits.

It comes, then, as no surprise that Washington produces warm weather wines, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

My personal experience with Washington wines has been very, very positive.  Nonetheless, these wines are not always easy to find.  In Nova Scotia the Port in Halifax is currently featuring 2014 Charles and Charles Cabernet/Shiraz for $ 17.99.  Some stores in Ontario offer a 2012 Steven Falls Cabernet for under $ 20 (this wine is highly recommended by my Toronto son).  For those who like to cruise, Oceania always seems to feature Washington wine on its ships.

COOKING WITH WINE:   How often have you heard the statement “if you won’t drink it, don’t cook with it?”  This is plain silly.  While wine definitely improves most foods during cooking, particularly meats and fish, most of the subtlety of fine wine is lost during the cooking.  During cooking several things happen to the wine, the main ones being the concentration of acids and the boiling off of the alcohol.

The primary thing that happens to food when cooked with wine is the enhanced flavours that the wine acids bring out in the food.  So cooking with an acidic wine such as Chianti (which I almost always refuse to drink) is a good thing.  Secondly, a highly tannic, oaky wine (such as one of my favorite Cabernet Sauvignons) may actually add a “chalky” taste to the meat.  Thus here is another reason to ignore the above statement about only cooking with what you would like to drink. 

Wines also vary in alcohol content, but as the alcohol disappears during the cooking it doesn’t really matter what wine you choose in terms of alcohol content.  I should point out that this only happens if the wine is added early in the process.  Adding wine near the end of the cooking period, where the alcohol doesn’t have time to boil off, may be a bad thing.  Finally, like the acid in a wine, sugars in a wine also concentrate during cooking.  Thus, if you want to add a slightly sweet taste to what you are cooking use a sherry rather than a table wine.  One of my favorite dishes is beef short ribs braised in a sherry sauce.  Here a medium dry sherry is best as a sweet sherry will add too much sugar.

In sum up; add a $ 12 wine to your favorite sauce and save your $ 30 wine for the glass that sits next to the dinner plate.

AFTER DINNER DRINKS:  If you snoop in your friends cupboards you will no doubt find several bottles of sweet liquors.  No doubt these were gifts from friends who thought they were being kind. 

Most of us probably enjoy a sweet dessert after a nice meal.  That doesn’t mean, however, that the crème caramel or apple pie needs to be accompanied by a sweet drink.  In fact chocolate probably goes best with a nice tannic wine such as Cabernet Sauvignon.  And, in my opinion the very best finish to a fine meal is a quality brandy such as Cognac, or my favorite, Armagnac.  As far as brandies go, you can’t beat the French.

OPIMIAN OFFERING 243:  Since this offering has wines from both Washington State and from Oregon I’d like to be able to make recommendations.  However, I have not tried most of the wines listed and at very high prices I can’t really suggest that you buy any.  Similarly the California offerings are also extremely pricey and the few that are offered in affordable range I have not found to my taste.

In Whine # 67 I predicted higher prices for American wines because of the relative position of the Canadian dollar.  Perhaps that explains the terribly high prices in Offering 243.  If, on the other hand, you really want to order something, the one recommendation that I am willing to make is 8729 Castoro Cellars Zinfandel.  I have found this Zin to be very drinkable.

WHINE # 68

GLASS CORKS:   A few weeks ago we happened across a very nice restaurant in Cornwall, Ontario (Caso Paolo Ristorante Italiano is well worth a visit).  To accompany our meals of parmigiana I ordered an inexpensive Sicilian Syrah (this Cusamano is also worth a try).  To my surprise the bottle came with a glass cork; the first I had ever seen.

From trusty Google I learned that glass corks were developed in Germany about a decade ago as an alternative to screw tops.  Designed to look like decanter stoppers these glass corks have a plastic O-ring which provides a tight seal, and allows the wine to be easily re-sealed should one not finish the bottle.

Apparently they are used in some German and Austrian wines (which is perhaps why I didn’t discover them before) and have also been tried by a few American wine producers.  In the United States they did not catch on and have been more-or-less abandoned.  This is unfortunate as they look very elegant and have no disadvantages that I can tell.

I KNOW WHAT I LIKE:    We’ve all heard someone say (or we’ve said it ourselves):  “I don’t know much about this but I do know what I like.”  This could refer to art, or to music, or even to wine.  At first reflection this seems like a silly statement, but is it really?  For example wines vary along many dimensions such as acid level, level of tannin, and of course the amount of alcohol.  So someone may like their wines to be thick and heavy whereas someone else may prefer their wines to be light-tasting.  Neither person may realize that they are reacting to the alcohol level in the wine.  Similarly someone may like the dried-puckered feeling in the mouth that comes from a good dose of tannin.  Meanwhile another may like the fruity-flavour that tends to come through with a younger wine without much tannin.

If you are someone who does know what you like, then it is an easy step to realize that certain grapes produce light wine (Gamay and Pinot Noir), and other grapes are generally found in heavier wines (Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz).  Similarly, if you like a wine with a bit of an acidic bite then northern Italian wines may be for you.  If you like your wines to be thick and chewy (high alcohol content) then New World wines, particularly from California or Argentina, may be what you are seeking.  Generally speaking French wines will give you the opposite sense in your mouth.
 

If you read my blogs regularly you know that I am interested in matching wines to the food that I am eating.  It should be noted, however, that it is even more important to choose a wine that matches your taste preferences.  In other words, pick a wine that you know you like and don’t worry about what food it is going to accompany.

SOUTH AMERICAN 2014 VINTAGE:   A reader wrote that he was finding Chilean wines to be not as good as he remembered.  After an exchange of e-mails I found that he was complaining about the 2014’s.  Checking my wine diary I confirmed that I am still drinking 11’s and 12’s and had only drunk one 2014 (it was poor but a wine I hadn’t had before).

It turns out that 2014 was a difficult year for both Chile and Argentina, as late frosts destroyed somewhere between 30 and 70 per cent of the grape crops.  However, many reviewers maintain that the remaining grapes that were harvested were of high quality.  That doesn’t match with the above observation.

On the other hand, I can’t help wondering about how the supply was maintained when perhaps half the crop was lost.  Is it possible that for some or many of the less expensive brands grapes were used that might otherwise have been discarded or gone into bulk wines?  This could explain both of the above observations.  In any event I would love to hear from any of you who are Chilean drinkers.  What do you think of the 2014’s?

WINES FOR SUMMER:   As the warm weather approaches it is time to ease off on the Merlots and the Chardonnays that you have been drinking all winter and choose some very light wines for sipping; and, some very heavy wines to accompany barbecued meat.

Nothing beats a well-chilled beer on a hot afternoon, but a close second can be a low alcohol wine that is icy cold.  My preference is a Vinho Verde from Portugal because first it is crackling and second it contains only about 9.5% alcohol.  Another good choice would be a French rose which is lighter than most other roses.  If you are more traditional, then the grapes of choice should be Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio.  If you must sip a red wine on a hot day, then try a slightly chilled Pinot.

On the other hand, once you fired up the grill you need to switch from very light wines to very heavy wines that can stand up to the high protein meats that have been heavily spiced.  A Bordeaux or a Burgundy simply won’t do.  For a medium rare steak nothing beats a Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa or Sonoma.  If your supper happens to be spicy pork ribs then there is no choice other than an Australian Shiraz.  Finally, if you are simply grilling burgers then go for a good Malbec from Argentina; not a $ 12 one, rather go for one in the $ 16 - $ 20 range.

CELLAR OFFERING 242:  2015 is claimed to have been the best year in Burgundy since 2005.  For this reason, but only if you have very deep pockets you might consider ordering one of the Pinots that are featured.  On the other hand, should you be of lesser means my recommendation would be either the 8683 Corbieres or the 8704 Chateau Canet Minervois Rouge.

Trivia

WHINE # 67

TRIVIA:  I thought I’d be a little lighter in this Whine and pass on some little known facts that relate to wine drinking.  So let’s start with who drinks the most wine.  If you guessed the French or the Italians, try again.  The per capita consumption of wine is greatest by far in the Vatican, where the consumption per person is 76 liters per year.  Now that is a lot of communion wine.

Of course it comes as no surprise that the consumption of alcoholic beverages ranges greatly from country to country.  Also, there is wide variation in what types of beverages are the preferred drinks.  In terms of total consumption of alcohol Belarus (not counting the 800 citizens of the Vatican) tops the list, followed by Moldova, Lithuania and Russia.  At the other end of the scale Pakistan has the least per capita consumption, followed closely by Mauritania, Libya, Kuwait and Bangladesh.  Canada comes in at 40^th, slightly ahead of the United States.  Canadians, of course, love their beer, with more than half of our alcohol consumption coming in cans, glass bottles or on tap.  Only 22% of our alcohol comes in wine bottles.

In terms of preference for wine over other drinks Equatorial Guinea tops the list at 72%, followed by Italy at 66%. The beer champions live in Namibia with 97% of their alcohol consumption in the form of various beers.  This is followed by Bosnia and Herzegovina at 73%.  Now, if you prefer spirits you should find yourself right at home In Haiti where 99% of all alcohol is in the form of spirits.

SOME OTHER FACTS:  Of all the books in the Bible, the only Old Testament book with no reference to wine is the Book of Jonah.

Women make better wine tasters than men, as on average they have a better sense of smell.

One should never fill a wine glass more than 1/3^rd full to allow the aromas to collect (and so as not to make a mess when you swirl your glass).

The number one fruit crop in the world is wine grapes.

Plato believed that the minimum drinking age should be 18, after which one should drink in moderation.  However, he also believed that men over 40 should be allowed to drink as much as they wanted in order to cure the “crabbedness of old age.”

When checking the vintage on a bottle of wine remember that grapes in the southern hemisphere are picked in what is our spring.  Thus, for example, a 2014 Argentinian wine is already a ½ year older than a 2014 French wine.

Finally, the Code of Hammurabi which formed the basis of Babylonian law in Mesopotamia around 1800 B.C. set many precedents for future generations.  For example, it contained the concept of “an eye for an eye”; it established the principle of “presumed innocence”; and it was the first code to mention a “minimum wage.”  However, my favorite was an included law that declared that fraudulent wine sellers “were to be drowned in a river.”

WINE PRICES GOING FORWARD:    There are many factors determining the price of wine including marketing decisions, taxes, reputation and quality of the particular wine, and, of course overall inflation.  However, in Canada we import most of our wine, so an important additional factor is exchange rates with various currencies.

We all know that the Canadian dollar has recently dropped dramatically following the downward plunge of world oil prices.  Four years ago our dollar was equivalent to the American dollar and now a Loonie is only worth ¾ of a greenback.  In both countries inflation is relatively low so we should expect rising prices for those wonderful Cabernets from Napa or Sonoma.

Sometimes, however, we focus too closely on American currency and don’t compare our dollars to other currencies, in this case with those countries that send us our favorite wines.

For those who like Old World wines we need to look at the Euro.  Here our dollar has also declined in value but not nearly as dramatically as against the US dollar.  In 2012 a Loonie got one about .78 Euros, in 2014 about .64 Euros, and currently about .68 Euros.  So prices of French, Italian, and Spanish wines should also increase.

Nonetheless the news is not all bad.  Our dollar has slightly gained against the Chilean Peso and against the Australian dollar.  Since inflation in Australia matches that in Canada we shouldn’t expect much change in the price of our favorite Shiraz.  Similarly inflation in Chile is only slightly higher than ours so again I would not predict much change in the price of Chilean wine.

Argentina, however, is in financial crisis.  Inflation is running at about 33% and at the same time the Peso has plummeted.  A dollar now gets about 12 pesos, up from 8 pesos in 2014 and 4 pesos in 2012.  Whether or not we see declining prices for Malbec in future, we certainly should not see price increases.  For those of us who love Malbec this is good news.

Finally, the other major wine producing country that is in financial difficulty is South Africa.  Today the Rand is worth a little more than ½ of what is bought in 2012.  Pinotage will remain a relatively inexpensive wine.

In conclusion it looks like 2016 will be the year to drink wines from the southern hemisphere.

QUOTES:  “Beer is made by men, wine by God.”  Martin Luther circa 1500

“Always drink some wine before you cook with it.  Nothing to do with the flavour, it just numbs the fear of cooking.”  Unknown

CELLAR OFFERING C241:  This time all the wines are French.  If you like subtle, flavourful, but relatively thin wines, and if you have deep pockets then you should find some great wines for cellaring. 

8599 Cremant de Bourgogne is a very interesting wine for those who find they prefer Champagne over Cava or Prosecco but can’t really justify the cost.  Cremant de Bourgogne tastes very much like Champagne but costs about half the price.  Still more expensive than Spanish Cava, it is almost affordable.

8603 Brouilly is one of the nine villages of Beaujolais and definitely a step up from ordinary Beaujolais or even Beaujolais Villages.

8609 Chateau Maillard  Graves is a wine I don’t know but was surprised at the relatively low price.  Possibly worth a try.

8616 Hortevie Saint Julien is a very nice wine.  On the other hand a bottle will cost you the equivalent of 3 bottles of very good Argentinian Malbec.  I suggest that if you order a case you don’t let your partner see the credit card slip.