WHINE # 74
Changes to the Whine:
When I posted my first Whine in 2008 it was mainly directed at members
of the Opimian Society, some of whom wanted suggestions as to what to buy from
the wine club’s offerings. Thus, I
posted a blog each time the Opimian Society sent a catalogue to its members.
Since 2008
there have been a number of changes.
First, fewer of those to whom I send notices are members of the Opimian Society. Second, the Opimian Society now makes more
frequent offerings. Therefore, by
linking my blogs to the Society’s timetable the result is more frequent blogs
than I wish to post.
Starting
with this Blog there will be two changes.
First, I shall not be making recommendations for wines to purchase from
Opimian. Second, I shall now be posting
blogs only quarterly.
An addendum to Leftover wine:
After posting my last blog, which included some advice for what to do
with leftover wine, I heard from a reader who noted that she quite liked the
“Coravin” system for preserving wine.
Coravin is a device whereby a needle is inserted through the cork of a
bottle, some wine is poured out, and argon gas is inserted into the
bottle. Once the needle is withdrawn the
wine is completely sealed and the inert argon gas prevents spoilage of the wine
in the now partially filled bottle. The
system costs $ 300 to $ 400 and one must buy cannisters of argon at something
less than $ 10.
I have not
tried this system and wonder how it works with plastic corks and more
importantly screw-top wines. As most of
us know all Australian wines are screw-top and most countries (except France,
Spain and Portugal) are relying less and less on traditional corks.
Albarino/Alvarhino: I don’t have a favorite red wine; there are simply too many
that I like. On the other hand, the list
of my white wine favorites is quite short, and Albarino is at the top of the
list. Albarino comes from Galacia (the
best being from Raix Baixas) in Northwest Spain. Although quite high in acidity it’s flavor is
more apricot or peach than lemon or lime.
It is a very smooth (high in glycerol) wine that is moderately heavy
(11.5% -12.5% alcohol). It is the
perfect accompaniment for shellfish. I
find it quite similar to Viognier, and not dissimilar from an unoaked
Chardonnay.
Although primarily
produced in Spain Albarino is making inroads in California and Australia. In Portugal the same grape is called
Alvarhino and it is used in some of the better Vinho Verdes. However, Vinho Verde tends to come from very
high production vineyards and the alcohol content is usually no more than
9%. Thus, a Spanish Albarino and a
Portuguese Vinho Verde (even when high in Alvarhino) are quite different.
If you like
unoaked American Chardonnay or if you like French Chablis, why not expand your
horizons and try a Spanish Albarino?
Syrah/Shiraz/Petite Syrah/Petite
Sirah: While it is easy to get confused
about these varietals, it is well worth sorting them out. Let’s start with Syrah Although grown
in many parts of the world (Australia, California, South America) Syrah is most
associated with the northern Rhone Valley.
Syrah from the northern Rhone (but it is also grown in the southern
Rhone) is a light colored, relatively thin wine with hints of scented flowers. Some of the best vintages are capable of many
years aging.
When grown
in Australia Syrah is called Shiraz and it is Australia’s
most popular red varietal. Syrah and
Shiraz are exactly the same grape; yet, a French Syrah and an Australian Shiraz
taste very different. An Australian Shiraz
is darker in color, has more alcohol content, and tastes peppery. Probably the difference is due to the much
hotter Australian climate, although the intentions of the wine-makers may also
contribute to the difference.
Petite Syrah:
There is a strain of Syrah with slightly smaller berries. Some growers in Burgundy as well as in
California refer to this strain as Petite Syrah. There is not a lot of this wine produced;
thus, I mention it only because of the confusion with the next varietal that I
shall describe.
Petite Sirah:
In California there is a varietal that is exploding in popularity called
Petite Sirah. In actual fact the
varietal is properly called Durif. However, you will much more likely find this
wine labelled Petite Sirah. Durif, or
Petite Sirah, is a cross between Syrah and Peloursin. It is very different from Syrah; darker, more
tannic, tasting of dense blackberry.
This is one of my very favorite wines.
It is a very good substitute for Cabernet Sauvignon when pairing with
red meats. On a recent cruise we had a
drinks’ package whereby we were offered a choice of 30 wines each night with
dinner. Although many of the wines were
excellent, most nights I ended up starting my dinner with a glass of Albarino
(Betty usually started with either French Champagne or Prosecco). After that we most often switched to Petite
Sirah with our main courses.
If you like
heavy, tannic wines and you haven’t tried Petite Sirah/Durif then a treat
awaits you.
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