WHINE # 52

 

PHYLLOXERA:   After centuries of success the wine industry in France faced a huge crisis in the 1850’s.  Vines were dying in ever-increasing numbers.  The plague that struck the French growers rapidly spread not only throughout France but to most of the world.  Eventually 4/5 of the world’s vines either succumbed to disease or were ripped from the earth by the growers in an attempt to save adjacent vines.  

The culprit was a tiny organism that attacked the roots of the vines, preventing them from absorbing water from the soil.  Eventually the roots of the vine would all but disappear.  Wine produced from the diseased vines was undrinkable.  The crisis was so great  that Emperor Louis-Napoleon invited the eminent French scientist of the day, Louis Pasteur, to the palace at Tuileries to discuss the problem.  Pasteur, however, was not to repeat his success of giving us safe milk to drink.  Although he was able to see the tiny louse by using a microscope, he was unable to suggest a way to prevent the spread from vineyard to vineyard.

The Phylloxera louse probably came to France from the United States where it had attacked vines in New York State and along the East Coast.   In the days of sailing ships the louse could not survive the long voyage but by the mid 19^th century potted plants (mostly ornamental) were being sent to Europe from North America in steam ships.

Every effort was made to combat the widening plague and wine producers spent fortunes first infusing the soil with carbon bisulfurate and later vines were watered with sulphocarbonate of potassium.  These poisons killed some of the organisms.  However, they also caused great sickness in the field workers and ultimately failed to eradicate the phylloxera louse.  Nonetheless, chemical treatments continued to be used well into the twentieth century.

In many ways this bit of history reminds me of the Dutch Elm disease that killed 160 two-century old trees on my beloved Antigonish Golf Course.  Chemical injections made profits for some manufacturers but ultimately failed to save the trees from being cut down and burned.

During the 20^th century growers gave up on chemicals and began the gargantuan task of grafting European vines (most of the world’s vines originated in Europe) on phylloxera-resistant roots from America.  Vitis labrusca and hybrids from that vine evolved in the United States to be resistant to the louse.  Now most of the world’s wines come from grafted vines.  In the late 1800’s French growers hand grafted 230,000 tonnes of bud-wood onto American rootstock.

Despite the spread of the disease throughout the world there remains to this day a few areas that are unaffected and where ungrafted vines are still grown.  The biggest area is, of course, South America.  Almost all vines in Chile and Argentina are ungrafted.  Many believe that the isolation of South American vineyards (ocean barrier) has been the protection.  This doesn’t explain the fact that wines in Jumilla (Spain), which is not isolated, made from Monastrell grapes come from ungrafted vines.  Also the vines of Washington State are almost all ungrafted.  Arguably the sandy soil is the real reason that these vines survive.

There are differences between ungrafted and grafted vines.  Grafted vines tend to produce more foliage and also larger grapes making them generally more productive.  On the other hand, ungrafted vines live and produce 3-4 times as long as grafted vines.  Ungrafted grapes tend not only to be smaller but have thicker skins, thus being more tannic.  Some argue that wines made from grapes from ungrafted vines have a purer, more interesting flavour.  However, to do true tasting tests one would have to have both grafted and ungrafted vines in the same vineyard, and for the vines to be the same age.   I certainly have never had an opportunity for that kind of comparison.  On the other hand, many of my favorite wines come from Argentina, Chile, Washington State and to a lesser extent Jumilla, the very areas with ungrafted vines.

Finally, even a few areas of France escaped plylloxera.  There are a few vineyards in Champagne where grapes are grown on ungrafted vines.

BLENDING WINE ACROSS VINTAGES:  Although most bottles of wines are sold with the vintage clearly indicated on the label a few wines are blended across vintages; that is wines from different years are mixed together.  This is quite common in Champagne where wines from lesser and greater vintages are blended together to produce a consistent product.  That way the consumer knows that a particular bubbly will always taste the same.  Even in Champagne, however, the best vintages are not blended but are sold by the vintage.

BLENDING ACROSS VARIETALS:   Mixing wines from different varietals has, for centuries, been the hallmark of European producers.  These blends have produced wines that are perhaps more subtle, more interesting, and generally tasting better than wines that could have been produced from a single type of grape.  For example mixing a soft Merlot with a harsh or tannic Cabernet gives a smoothness and a flavour that couldn’t have been found in either varietal.

In countries such as France the particular grapes that can be blended together in a village or area are carefully controlled by law.  Thus, Bordeaux contains Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Carignon and Malbec.  Cote du Rhone will have Grenache Noir, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mouvedre.  Saint Emilion will have Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon blended into the dominant Merlot.  Chateauneuf-du-Pape has 10 different varietals added to the Grenache.

For most of wine history European wines were labelled by the village or area where the grapes were grown.  So, for example, if you bought a bottle of Chianti you knew that the grape is Sangiovese and that a bottle of Beaujolais is made exclusively from the Gamay grape, an exception to the blending preference.  It was always assumed that the consumer just knew what was in the bottle so long as the village or area of origin was listed.

In the New World, however, producers needed to make their wines more accessible to their less sophisticated consumers.  The vintners recognized that labelling their bottles by the name of the grape made it easier to remember what was liked and what wasn’t.  New drinkers quickly learned that Pinot Noir is light and thin, and that Cabernet Sauvignon is heavier and even a little bitter tasting.  For those who were a little more sophisticated the valley or area where the grapes were grown might be listed in the fine print on the back of the label.

While labelling wine by the varietal may be easier for the consumer, much is sacrified by not blending.  Recognizing this fact Californian and Australian producers have had recent success in producing a Bordeaux-type blend for which they have invented a special name (Meritage).  The consumer only has to remember one name for the blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and a few miniscule other grapes.

In fact, vintners may add a small amount of a second or third varietal but only name the dominant grape on the front label.   Thus, you may think that wine is 100 % Cabernet when in fact it contains 5 or 10% of another varietal.  This minor deception is not bad, however, as the blend is most likely superior.  On the other hand, I do find that I don’t like to be talked (or labelled) down to just because the North American producers think I don’t understand the skill of an expert blender.

A final word of caution, however.  Sometimes producers with poor wines will make a blend them together and simply label them “Red Wine” or “Red Blend”.  Although this is not a hard rule my suggestion is to avoid wines so labelled.

OPIMIAN OFFERING 226: 

7675:  Beaune, Les Bons Feuvres.  If you like a very light, but flavourful wine, this Pinot Noir might be for you.

7695:  Chateau Canet Minervois.  Less expensive than the Pinot above this Syrah Grenache blend has a little more body and more fruit flavours.

7704:  Tortoise Creek Viognier.  This white wine is for those who like but can’t afford Chablis.

7708:  Chateau Salitis Cabardes.  Another affordable, medium bodied red with lots of flavour.