January, 2013

 

WHINE # 39

 

Wines less familiar – Alto Adige:    It is always nice to stick to the familiar; in the case of wine we like to stock up on our favorites, be they an Argentinian Malbec, or a French Bordeaux.  On the other hand, it is sometimes fun to try the unfamiliar, a little risk and occasionally a high reward.  In this issue of the Whine I am going to mention wines from three regions that are perhaps less familiar.  It may be difficult to find wines from the first two regions.  However, the third will be easy.

At the very top of Italy, next to the Austrian border lies the Alto Adige region.  The south facing slopes of the Alps produce some very fine wines.  Naturally one would expect whites from such a mountainous area.  However, all the familiar reds (Pinot, Cabernet, Merlot) are also produced in considerable volume.  In addition, there are two varietals that are grown almost nowhere else:  Schiava and Lagrein.  Unfortunately I have never tried the former but the latter, particularly in blends, adds a body that reminds one of the hearty wines of South America.  These wines are very difficult to find in North America, but for those who belong to Opimian watch for any offering of the wines of Elena Walch.  I have tried several of her wines and have loved them all.

Wines less familiar – Washington State:  Many of you are perhaps familiar with the Pinot Noirs of Oregon.  These cool-climate wines are produced on the slopes of the west side of the mountains.   Since Washington is farther north than Oregon I had always assumed that hot weather wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, would not be a good bet.  However, while on a Mediterranean cruise in November I noticed several wines from Washington State on the dinner menu.  I tried three (not at the same meal) and was particularly impressed with the Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet.

I wondered how Washington could produce wines that to my taste rivalled those of Napa or Sonoma.  The answer appears to be that the vines are grown on a huge irrigated desert plateau on the east side of the mountains.  Here there are more than 300 cloud-free days each year and in midsummer there are two more hours of sunshine than there is in central California.

Since no wines from Washington are available in Nova Scotia I don’t know when I shall get to try more of these intriguing reds.  Perhaps some of you have access to and/or are familiar with Washington State wines.  If so, I should love to hear from you.

Wines less familiar – Monastrell from Jumilla:    When measured by hectares 13.8% of the world’s vineyards are in Spain.  In terms of volume Spain is the 3^rd largest producer of wine and ranks second in terms of wine exports.  Tempranillo is the most commonly grown red grape in Spain and most of us are familiar with its sensation of dryness in the mouth, being both low in acid and low in sugar.

If you want a pleasant change, however, try Spain’s second indigenous red varietal, Monastrell.  Monastrell is also grown in other countries, including France (where the name has been changed to something more French sounding; i.e. Mourvedre), California and Chile.

Monastrell is a black grape with thick skins.  Thus the wine is high in tannins and well matched to food high in protein.  Jumilla is the area best known for this variety but it is grown in almost all parts of Spain.

Here is a recipe for the perfect food match for this wine.  This is an easy recipe, although it may take you a little time.  I assure you that it is more than worth the effort.  Try it on one of these cold, Canadian winter nights.

 

 

BRAISED SHORT RIBS

Makes 4 servings—to serve more you can increase the meat without increasing the sauce

2 ½ lbs. (about 1 kg) beef short ribs, cut into serving size pieces

Salt and pepper

2 Tbsp oil

1 stalk celery, diced

3 carrots, diced

1 jalapeno pepper, chopped (optional)

1 onion chopped

3 shallots, chopped

3 large garlic cloves, chopped

2 Tbsp tomato paste

2 Tbsp flour

½ cup port (this adds a nice flavour, but if you don’t have it the sauce is still good)

2 cups red wine

2 sprigs fresh rosemary (or you can use dried)

8 sprigs fresh thyme (or dried)

3 cups beef stock

 

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Heat oil in a large heavy pot, like a dutch oven.  Season the ribs with salt and pepper, and brown slowly on all sides.  Set ribs aside while you make the sauce.

Add celery, carrots, jalapeno pepper, onion, shallots, and garlic to the pot and sauté until softened and golden brown, about 7 minutes.  Stir often to prevent burning.

Stir tomato paste into vegetable mix.  Add flour and stir to combine.  Cook for another 2 minutes.

Add port, wine, and herbs.  Turn heat to medium-high and simmer for about 10 minutes, until mixture begins to reduce.  Stir occasionally to prevent sticking and burning.

Add beef stock and bring sauce to a boil.  Return ribs to pot.  Cover tightly and put in 300 degree oven for 3 hours.

When done carefully remove ribs from sauce, the meat will be very tender.  Now, if you wish you can strain the sauce, and spoon off any accumulated fat.  But, for a more flavourful sauce, blend in the cooked vegetables with an immersion blender, or transfer to a blender and puree.

Bring the sauce to a boil and reduce for about 10 minutes.  If you’d like it a little thicker, thicken with a little corn starch mixed with cold water.  Return ribs to sauce, and serve with mashed potatoes to go with the delicious sauce.

You should have enough leftover sauce to freeze for a second meal, which will only require browning the ribs and baking in the ready-made sauce.

This can be made the day before, and reheated on stove very slowly.

For those who live in Ontario:  Vintages is currently showing in its listings 2009 Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon for $ 19.95.  It is also available in British Columbia. This incredible rich wine is absolutely fabulous.  Unfortunately for me it is no longer available at any store in Nova Scotia, and I took the last bottle from my cellar a couple of nights ago.  If you want a special Cabernet to match your next roast or steak, it will be well worth your trip to Vintages.

Confessions of a red wine snob:  Because I almost always choose red wine over white wine I have fallen into the delusional trap of laying out significant portions of my pension funds for quality Cabernet Sauvignons; then I “save” money by picking up bottom-end Sauvignon Blancs.  And this is the guy who wrote a thesis (albeit 45 years ago) on the self-fulfilling prophecy.

So, to make amends my recommendation from this month’s Opimian Offering (#214) is that you go for a high-end Chablis and an everyday Cabernet.

#6912 Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaumes, Jacques Lamblin:  As I tend to turn away from French Reds I am continuing to be impressed with quality Chablis.  If you, like me, tend to shy away from white wine, then try a really good one.

#6948 2012 Paulita Cabernet Sauvignon:  Although very drinkable this is not a great wine.  However, at this price you won’t complain.

#6922 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, AOC, 2010:  Absolutely avoid this!  I once had a case of this and it tasted as if one had put 2 ounces of a neighbour’s homemade wine in a highball glass and then filled the glass to the rim with tap water.